New Design Blower Motor Speed Control module / Resistor for GM Trucks and SUV’s

Even the most venerable vehicles can have some minor flaws when they are engineered and designed. One such system turns out to be the blower motor speed controller for millions of GM trucks and SUV’s. This particular problem only applies to the vehicles with automatic temperature control systems.

This information applies to the Following Vehicles: 2003-2006 Silverado/Sierra,  2003-2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer, Buick Rainier, GMC Envoy, 2003-2006  Escalade, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Avalanche

Initial failure symptoms usually consist of one or more of the following issues:

  • Blower Motor Stays Running Even When Truck Is Off
  • Blower Motor Doesn’t Work Consistently, (Will turn on randomly)
  • Blower Motor Runs at Wrong Fan Speed
  • Blower Motor Doesn’t work at all

If you have the Automatic Temperature Control and exhibit any of the above symptoms, suspect the blower module to be the issue. The original design had a small three pin connector which, as it turns out, is not sufficient to draw the amount of electrical current that flows through the module and into the blower motor. One cause of failure was from these pins heating up repeatedly and eventually causing stress to the module which would create a failure.


Old Style, Problem Prone Blower Module

GM And AC-Delco have completely redesigned the original blower control module which now includes a heavier duty connector. It is easy to install and just requires cutting off the old three pin connector and splicing together three wires. We suggest soldering these wires together to create a permanent good connection, but butt-crimp connectors can also be used. The newly designed module and connector can be seen below.

New Blower Module

New Design Blower Resistor / Control Module has the module for sale, it is a very economical repair for a very frustrating and inconvenient problem.

One Important note, The Manual Temperature Control vehicles use a completely different part, they use a blower resistor which actually has 7-pins and has entirely different symptoms.

How to Replace a Windshield Wiper Motor and Transmission Linkage Assembly

This set of repair instructions apply to-

2005-2009 Pontiac G6
2008-2012 Chevy Malibu
2007-2009 Saturn Aura

Often referred to a Wiper System Module, this is made up of  a wiper motor and the mechanical linkage that actuates the wiper blades.  After several years of use or from excessive
conditions like snow, this linkage can break and cause the wiper blades to move sporadically or not at all.

Windshield Wiper Motor (Part #: 22711011) & Transmission Linkage Assembly (Part #: 22711010)

1.) Ensure that the wipers are set to the ‘PARK’ position

2.) Open hood
3.) Remove wiper arm nut finish cap
4.) Remove the wiper arm nut
5.) To remove the wiper arm requires a special tool.
** Removing the wiper arm without a removal tool. Fold wiper arm to the service position (facing upward) gentle rock the arm on pivot shaft to remove

6.) Remove the air inlet grille panel and hood seal. Fasteners are most often push-pin style.  But, some models do use small trim bolts.
7.) Remove the bolts attaching the wiper module to the plenum

8.) Carefully lift the wiper module out of the plenum
9.) Disconnect the electrical connector from the wiper motor and the clip retaining the electrical harness to the wiper motor
10.) Remove the wiper module assembly from the vehicle

Reverse removal procedure for installation.
*When installing the wiper arms, align the wiper arm onto the wiper module pivot shaft with wiper blade to the wiper dots/stops on the windshield.
When job is complete inspect for proper operation.

Torque Specs
Wiper Arm Nuts 25 lb ft
Wiper Module Bolts 89 lb in

Does your ECOTEC engine have an oil leak?

Vehicles with the Ecotec 2.0L, 2.2L or 2.4L engine, may have a undersized oil drain plug thread insert that was installed incorrectly or has moved during the re-installation of drain plug well doing an oil change.  Once the insert has moved, the threads have a much higher chance of stripping. Stripped drain plug threads can cause the drain plug to loosen or not tighten, resulting in an oil leak.

Another common occurrence of an oil leak comes from the vehicle bottoming out,  hitting the oil pan and causing a crack.  This condition is most common in the Chevy HHR.

Click here for APDTY Ecotec Oil Pan Page

Oil Pan Replacement

1.) Remove the oil level indicator and tube.
2.) Raise and support the vehicle.
3.) Place a drain pan under the oil pan drain plug.
4.) Remove the oil pan drain plug.
5.) Drain oil.
6.) Re-install the oil pan drain plug.
7.) Remove the engine drive belt.
8.) Remove the lower air conditioning (A/C) compressor bolt.
9.) If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the 2 lower transaxle bolts.
10.) If the vehicle is equipped with a automatic transaxle, remove the 4 lower transaxle bolts.
11.)  Remove the oil pan bolts.
12.) Remove the oil pan.
13.)  Clean all gasket sealing surfaces and ensure that the oil pan and the sealing surface on the lower crankcase are free of all oil and debris.
14.) Apply a 2 mm bead of sealant (1) around the perimeter of the oil pan and the oil suction port opening. DO NOT over apply the sealant. More than a 2 mm bead is not required.
15.) Install the oil pan, tighten oil pan bolts in sequence shown
16.) Reverse removal procedure to install

Tighten the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown,  Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
*If the vehicle is equipped with a automatic transaxle,  the 4 lower transaxle bolts. Tighten the bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
*If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the 2 lower transaxle bolts. Tighten the bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft)
*Install the lower A/C compressor bolt. Tighten the bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

Universal Seat Heater Kit, installs in any car. The permanent cure for the cold winter rump!

Dorman Automotive Products has released a great new kit. This kit is  designed to add heated seats to cars that did not originally include them. It is designed to work with just about any seat style and is not too difficult to install.

Seat Heater Complete Kit

Universal Seat Heater Kit

You can click the image above to purchase the kit. Or click here:  Universal Seat Heater Kit

The kit includes everything you need to install a seat heater into a single seat. I installed this into my own car (We made a video of it too) last winter, and it works wonders. Now, a year later, with the cold air starting to set in, I have already fired it up a couple times and it works as good as the day I installed it!

Without writing a full review on the product, I can tell you this; At first I was skeptical that this seat heater would really do the job, it’s inexpensive, and seemed too easy to install. But let me tell you, this seat heater really works great! I will often set it on the low setting, even if it’s not very cold outside simply because the heated seats are comfortable, and seem to help prevent a sore back on long drives (Which I frequently make). If it’s extremely cold outside, you may want to kick the seat heater on High, but you likely won’t leave it on there long, because it quickly gets very very warm.

Check out the video below, you can see how the kit is installed into my 2003 Crown Victoria.

Every car is going to be different in how to install the seat heater, but our video should give you a good basic understanding of how it works.

How Does a Car Heater System Work? Why Does it Take So Long To Heat Up?… All about your car heater!!

The automotive heater system is often not thought about during the warm months of the year. But during the winter, when that heater doesn’t work correctly, you realize it fast!

Basic Description  of How the Heater Works

So how does the heater in your car work? The internal combustion engine (Gas, Diesel, Natural gas, etc..) creates an excessive amount of heat whenever the engine is running. This is because there are literally thousands of small fiery explosions inside the engine every minute. All this excess heat usually gets dumped back into the outside air via the radiator. But the passenger heater system can take advantage of this excess heat, and warm the inside of the car with it! The water pump pushes engine coolant (antifreeze) throughout the cooling system, including the heater core. It can take a while for the engine to warm up and heat up the antifreeze, while the engine is cold, the coolant flowing through the heater core is cold, and therefore you don’t have any heat until the engine heats up.  But once that engine warms up, it creates plenty of excess heat to keep you warm even in the coldest winter months.

Diagram of Cooling System

– How Hot Coolant Flows to the Heater Core

Inside the car and behind the dashboard is a box called a Heater or Evaporator Housing. This housing is what controls the air going to your various air vents. The housing has doors inside which can redirect airflow to go through or around the heater core. The more air that flows through the heater core, the hotter the outlet air is, the more that goes around the heater core, the cooler the outlet air.

How the Air Flows through the HVAC Box

— Airflow through the evaporator housing

Most Common Causes of an Inoperative Heater System.

There are various parts of the system that can fail and cause a broken heater system. Some of the more common are mentioned below

1) Clogged Heater Core

– A heater core can become clogged, this is most often caused by lack of maintenance to the cooling system. If the antifreeze becomes rusty or gummed up, the small passages within the heater core will become clogged and will not let the warm antifreeze flow through the heater core.

2) Temperature Blend Door Problem

– A problem with the temperature blend door can cause lack of heat, if the door doesn’t move to allow airflow through the heater core, the incoming air never has the chance to become hot and will stay cold. Blend door problems can be caused by multiple things, including the blend-door actuator, a broken blend door itself, or even a faulty AC control module.

3) Heater Control Valve

– Some cars use a valve called a heater control valve. This valve opens only when the heater is turned on, and what it does is stop or allow the hot antifreeze from flowing to the heater core. If this valve becomes faulty, it can prevent hot antifreeze from reaching the heater core.

4) Bad Engine Thermostat

– The thermostat in the engine is designed to stay closed until the engine heats up, and then only open when the engine reaches a certain temperature. If the thermostat is stuck in an open position, the engine may not be able to reach it’s full operating temperature and will therefore not allow the heater core to get hot.

5) Problem with the blower motor or blower motor resistor

– In order for air to be pushed through the heater core, the blower motor has to be operative. A bad blower motor or blower motor resistor can cause lack of airflow through the heater core.

6) Mode Door Actuator Problem

– A Mode door problem will still allow hot air, but the hot air might come out of the wrong vents. Mode door issues are most often caused by vacuum problems, as the mode doors are usually controlled by vacuum controllers.

Upgraded Coolant Tubes for Semi Trucks. Freightliner, Kenworth, Peterbilt and Volvo

Do you have a coolant leak on your Heavy Duty Truck?  Why is this tube failing?  There are no moving parts, is it just a poorly designed part?  Or is it the environment in which a coolant tube operates? APDTY has been able to target the most failure prone coolant tubes, the ones you have to replace at an alarming rate.  These coolant tubes have beefed up the weak spots. Redesigned from the cheap low-grade steel and replaced with high-quality stainless. The result is a more reliable solution for you and your truck.


To see the Full-Line of APDTY  Heavy Duty Truck Coolant Tubes, Redesigned with Stainless Steel Click Here.

Chevy 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Intake Manifold Assembly, Replaces GM OEM # 17113697

1999-2002 GM Full-Size Vehicles with the  4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L  engines with the EGR Tube option.

GM OEM Intake Manifold part number 17113697


This part fits 85 GM vehicles with various  options, below is a overview of  the intake manifolds fitment.
Here is a link to specific Year/Make/Model with 8th digit Vin check.

GM has two designs of  fuel systems, returned or return-less.  The difference is in the fuel pressure regulator, either mounted on the fuel rail or on top of the fuel pump.

The most common fuel system is the returned style. If installing this intake manifold on a return-less system, there is no modification of the vacuum routing necessary.

Adding the vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator can be done two ways.
You could add a tee fitting into the PCV hose.  Or on most models, there is a  un-used vacuum port on the passenger side of the intake. is now offering the GM Intake Manifold 17113697  that has been modified to work with vehicles that have an EGR tube feature

Does your 7.3L Power Stoke Diesel feel down on power? Does it make a funny noise when starting?

Does your 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel feel like it’s only running on half the motor,  or that it just doesn’t have the towing power it used to?  After checking for codes you may find a code P1316, unfortunately this code is only telling you to check the IDM.  As a diesel owner this is a scary thought….. is it an injector, the IDM failed, or even worse, multiple injectors?  All of these scenarios sound costly and testing the IDM requires a professorial scan tool, that can run a “buzz test”

So, What is a Buzz Test??
This test is a sequence of duty cycles to activate the injectors. This gives the technician the ability to hear a audible tone of the injector pulsing.  This ‘Buzz test’  helps identify if there are any faulty injectors or drivers.

With the 7.3L Power Stroke engine most often this problem is with the Under Valve Cover (UVC) Harness. This is where the wiring passes into the engine to deliver power to the injectors and glow plugs. What seems to be happening is that the natural vibration of the diesel engine is loosening the electrical connection. This gap in the harness connector pins either stops making the connection, or increases the resistance causing the amperage to increase resulting in a burnt up harness connector.

* *Inspect Connector and wiring for any problems

How do you test for this condition without a scan tool?

As the engine is starting, you maybe experiencing a hard start that is accompanied by a distinct sound….
Here is a audio clip of a 7.3L Power Stroke starting up with one UVC Harness not working.

      1. Misfiring 7.3L Diesel

Doing a temperature test on the exhaust manifold is another way of determining what cylinder(s) are not firing.  This can be done several ways; one way would be to use a inferred temperature gun.  What you are looking for is a temperature difference between the cylinders of the exhaust manifold.  This can also be done by dripping VISINE®  or equivalent  eye drops on the exhaust manifold ports.  When the manifold is cold the eye drops will cling to (stick to and run down) the exhaust manifold.  As the engine warms up the eye drops will start to bounce off.  A correctly firing cylinder will produce enough heat in less than a minute to make it completely bounce off with no trace of liquid on the exhaust manifold. With either test the side not firing will be very slow to heat up.

Once you have determined what side of the engine is the problem, it’s time to pull the valve cover off and inspect the harness connectors.
Tech Tip-  On the drivers side valve cover, there is hidden bolt under the crank case vent.  On the crank case vent, their are 2 o-rings that when removed will not be reusable do to oil saturation or swelling.   DO NOT remove these two bolt holding the vent on, unless you plan on replacing these o-rings.  Use a boxed-end wrench to brake free the bolt and continue to remove bolt using your fingers.

Ford has recognized this problem and has released a connector wedge to resolve the connector from loosening. Part number 2C3Z-14A163-AB

Dorman 615-201
1998-2003 Ford E-Series Vans 2003-1998
1999-2003 F250-550 Super Duty Trucks
2000-2003 Ford Excursion

Dorman 615-202
1995-1997 Ford E-Series Vans
1994-1997 F250-450 Trucks

Ford 7.3L Diesel with NO Hydraulic Clutch Pressure? After Bleeding the hydraulic system you still having NO pressure?

On 1993-1995 Ford F-Series Trucks with 7.3L Turbo Diesels (8th digit of Vin F), owners may experience the clutch pedal pushing to the floor without disengaging the clutch. This could be caused by a leaking clutch hydraulic system, resulting in a loss of hydraulic pressure to the clutch assembly.

Ford has released a TSB Article No. 95-4-9, in this article Ford recommends updated some parts to solve this problem.
Model(s): Ford Light Truck: 1993-95 F Super Duty, F-250, F-350

E3TZ-7A564-A  Clutch Slave Cylinder
F2TZ-7A543-D  Clutch Master Cylinder
F5TZ-7A512-A  Tube Kit
E7TZ-7A554-A  Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever

In Ford’s TSB, they list a point of interest with installing the master cylinder. Ensure there is no excess cowl seam sealer under the mounting surface of the master cylinder. Excess sealer will cause the master cylinder to be slightly mispositioned.

Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever is located on top of the Pedal Assembly, this part repositions the lever on the master for a better stroke.

Installing a new Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever (E7TZ-7A554-A) as follows:

1) Snap the new pedal pivot shaft lever (pin) on the new clutch master cylinder push rod bushing.

2) Install the new pedal pivot shaft lever on the clutch pedal shaft.

3) Install the attaching nut finger tight.

4) Inspect the pedal position to ensure it is against the “up” stop.

5) Tighten the attaching nut. This will permit the knurled teeth on the shaft to cut matching teeth in the lever, which then results in correct positioning of the two (2) part.

After the new parts have been installed, follow the system bleeding procedures to obtain proper clutch function.

1) Using Disconnect Tool (T88T-70522-A), disconnect coupling at transmission by lightly tugging on clutch tube while sliding White plastic sleeve toward slave cylinder. Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Using hand pressure, apply 10-15 pounds to clutch pedal. If pedal is hard, go to step 3). If pedal is spongy, go to next step.

2) Using a screwdriver, open valve of male coupling. Slowly depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. Remove screwdriver to close valve, and release clutch pedal. Ensuring reservoir is full, repeat step.

3) Close reservoir and reconnect coupling. Rapidly depress clutch pedal 5-10 times, wait 1-3 minutes, then repeat procedure 3 more times. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from entering bellhousing. Loosen bleeder screw and maintain fluid level in reservoir.

4) Fluid and bubbles will flow from hose attached to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw when fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure fluid level is correct and install reservoir cap.

5) Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level.

6) Test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift in Reverse. No grinding should be heard or felt when clutch pedal is within 1/2″ (13 mm) of floor. If noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.

Acura and Honda vehicles with V6 engines, having problems with EGR trouble codes PO401 or P1491 and/or engine pinging.

Acura and Honda’s with V6 engines, with EGR trouble codes and/or engine pinging. Check engine light on with DTC’s PO401 (insufficient EGR flow) or P1491 (insufficient EGR lift), This problem is due to the EGR port being clogged causing the failure. Honda has issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletins) TSB-99-085 for the corrective action for cleaning the EGR port, and installing new EGR pipe kit. TechSmart™ has also released a similar solution for unclogging and replacing the EGR port tube.

The TechSmart™ EGR fix consist of a tool kit B22001 a coated, stepped drill bit and a punch tool. The repair kit F23001, includes a new EGR tube, throttle body and EGR valve gasket.

Corrective Action for Cleaning the EGR port, and installing the EGR Pipe Kit
Applies For:
1998-00 Accords V6 – ALL
2001 Accord V6 – 4-door from VIN 1 HGCG 1…1 A000001 thru  1 HGCG1…1 A058564
2001 Accord V6 – 2-door from VIN 1 HGCG2…1 AO00001 thru   t HGCG2…1A023388

BACKGROUND: In some areas of the U.S., certain basic chemical properties of gasoline (regardless of brand) may cause the intake manifold EGR port to clog or the EGR valve to fail. If this happens, the MIL comes on with a DTC P0401 (insufficient EGR flow) or P1491 (insufficient EGR lift) stored.

1. Remove the throttle body cover, intake manifold covers, ignition wire holder, and ignition wire cover.

2. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and the vacuum hose from the intake manifold
3. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold (two nuts and two bolts). Leave all hoses, cables, and electrical connectors connected to the throttle body. Discard the throttle body gasket.

4. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Remove the intake manifold (three nuts and six bolts).
5. Remove the intake manifold chamber, IAT sensor, boost plate, and PCV hose from the intake manifold.

6. Cover the six ports on the bottom of the manifold with duct tape.

7. Use a 8-mm drill bit and carburetor cleaner to clean the EGR port in the intake manifold. Turn the drill bit only by hand. Do not use a power drill.
8. Put the special drill bit from the EGR pipe installation kit in your power drill. Coat the drill bit completely with clean engine oil. NOTE: The oil coating is critical to drilling the hole accurately, and it contributes to drill bit life.
9. Insert the guide part of the drill bit into the EGR port. Make sure it is inserted fully. Then drill out the EGR port using steady pressure on the drill Make sure the port is drilled through completely.

10. Clean up the aluminum Chips from drilling, then remove the duct tape.
11. Put the Manifold in a parts washer (solvent or soap and water) and clean it thoroughly.
• Flush out the EGR port for 20 seconds.
• Flush out the manifold from the throttle body opening. Run cleaner down each side for 20 seconds.
• Flush each intake runner for 10 seconds. Start at the throttle body end and work towards the back.
• Turn the manifold so the throttle body opening is facing down. Flush each main runner for 20 seconds.
• Dry the manifold with compressed air and clean shop towels.

12. Place the EGR pipe from the kit into the EGR port.

13. Use the installation tool and a small hammer to drive the EGR pipe into the port until it is flush with the port. Make sure the pipe will not contact the gasket after installation.

14. Install the intake manifold chamber; torque the nuts and bolts to 12 N•m (8.7 lb-ft). Install the IAT sensor; torque it to 18 N•m (13 lb-ft). Install the boost plate; torque the bolts to 12 N•m (8.7 lb-ft). Install the PCV hose.
15. Inspect the EGR port in the front of the injector base on the engine. If it is partially or fully clogged, clean the port.
16. Disconnect the 6P connector from the EGR valve. Remove the
EGR valve.

17. Install the new EGR valve with newly supplied gasket; Torque the mounting nuts to 22 N•m (16 Ib-ft). Reconnect the 6P connector.
18. Install the intake manifold with the original gasket. Torque the mounting nuts and bolts to 22 N•m (18 lb-ft) sequentially in two or three steps. Route the PCV hose so it is not pinched under the intake manifold.

19. Install the PCV valve in the cylinder head cover.
20. Install the throttle body with a new gasket. Torque the mounting nuts and baits to 22 N•m (18 Ib-ft).
21. Reinstall the brake booster vacuum hose, vacuum hose, ignition wire holder, and all of the covers.
22. Connect the PGM Tester (loaded with SN200 or later software). Clear any DTCs.
23. Use the PGM Tester to override two-trip error detection.
• From the PGM tester menu, select 1. Honda Systems.
• Then select 2. SCS.
24. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure no new OTCs are set.


B22001 Tool kit
2001-2003,1997-1999 Acura CL
2003-2009 Acura MDX
1999-2008 Acura TL
1998-2007 Honda Accord
1999-2007 Honda Odyssey
2003-2008 Honda Pilot
2006-2008 Honda Ridgeline
2004-2007 Saturn Vue

F23001 Repair Kit
1999 Acura TL
1998-2001 Honda Accord
2006-2008 Honda Ridgeline
2004-2007 Saturn Vue

Copyright © 1996-2010 All rights reserved.
iDream theme by Templates Next | Powered by WordPress