1
Jun/12

Does your 7.3L Power Stoke Diesel feel down on power? Does it make a funny noise when starting?

by under Uncategorized

Does your 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel feel like it’s only running on half the motor,  or that it just doesn’t have the towing power it used to?  After checking for codes you may find a code P1316, unfortunately this code is only telling you to check the IDM.  As a diesel owner this is a scary thought….. is it an injector, the IDM failed, or even worse, multiple injectors?  All of these scenarios sound costly and testing the IDM requires a professorial scan tool, that can run a “buzz test”

So, What is a Buzz Test??
This test is a sequence of duty cycles to activate the injectors. This gives the technician the ability to hear a audible tone of the injector pulsing.  This ‘Buzz test’  helps identify if there are any faulty injectors or drivers.

With the 7.3L Power Stroke engine most often this problem is with the Under Valve Cover (UVC) Harness. This is where the wiring passes into the engine to deliver power to the injectors and glow plugs. What seems to be happening is that the natural vibration of the diesel engine is loosening the electrical connection. This gap in the harness connector pins either stops making the connection, or increases the resistance causing the amperage to increase resulting in a burnt up harness connector.

* *Inspect Connector and wiring for any problems

How do you test for this condition without a scan tool?

As the engine is starting, you maybe experiencing a hard start that is accompanied by a distinct sound….
Here is a audio clip of a 7.3L Power Stroke starting up with one UVC Harness not working.

  

Doing a temperature test on the exhaust manifold is another way of determining what cylinder(s) are not firing.  This can be done several ways; one way would be to use a inferred temperature gun.  What you are looking for is a temperature difference between the cylinders of the exhaust manifold.  This can also be done by dripping VISINE®  or equivalent  eye drops on the exhaust manifold ports.  When the manifold is cold the eye drops will cling to (stick to and run down) the exhaust manifold.  As the engine warms up the eye drops will start to bounce off.  A correctly firing cylinder will produce enough heat in less than a minute to make it completely bounce off with no trace of liquid on the exhaust manifold. With either test the side not firing will be very slow to heat up.

Once you have determined what side of the engine is the problem, it’s time to pull the valve cover off and inspect the harness connectors.
Tech Tip-  On the drivers side valve cover, there is hidden bolt under the crank case vent.  On the crank case vent, their are 2 o-rings that when removed will not be reusable do to oil saturation or swelling.   DO NOT remove these two bolt holding the vent on, unless you plan on replacing these o-rings.  Use a boxed-end wrench to brake free the bolt and continue to remove bolt using your fingers.

Ford has recognized this problem and has released a connector wedge to resolve the connector from loosening. Part number 2C3Z-14A163-AB

Dorman 615-201
1998-2003 Ford E-Series Vans 2003-1998
1999-2003 F250-550 Super Duty Trucks
2000-2003 Ford Excursion

Dorman 615-202
1995-1997 Ford E-Series Vans
1994-1997 F250-450 Trucks

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17
May/12

Ford 7.3L Diesel with NO Hydraulic Clutch Pressure? After Bleeding the hydraulic system you still having NO pressure?

by under Ford, Uncategorized

On 1993-1995 Ford F-Series Trucks with 7.3L Turbo Diesels (8th digit of Vin F), owners may experience the clutch pedal pushing to the floor without disengaging the clutch. This could be caused by a leaking clutch hydraulic system, resulting in a loss of hydraulic pressure to the clutch assembly.

Ford has released a TSB Article No. 95-4-9, in this article Ford recommends updated some parts to solve this problem.
Model(s): Ford Light Truck: 1993-95 F Super Duty, F-250, F-350

E3TZ-7A564-A  Clutch Slave Cylinder
F2TZ-7A543-D  Clutch Master Cylinder
F5TZ-7A512-A  Tube Kit
E7TZ-7A554-A  Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever

In Ford’s TSB, they list a point of interest with installing the master cylinder. Ensure there is no excess cowl seam sealer under the mounting surface of the master cylinder. Excess sealer will cause the master cylinder to be slightly mispositioned.

Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever is located on top of the Pedal Assembly, this part repositions the lever on the master for a better stroke.

Installing a new Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever (E7TZ-7A554-A) as follows:

1) Snap the new pedal pivot shaft lever (pin) on the new clutch master cylinder push rod bushing.

2) Install the new pedal pivot shaft lever on the clutch pedal shaft.

3) Install the attaching nut finger tight.

4) Inspect the pedal position to ensure it is against the “up” stop.

5) Tighten the attaching nut. This will permit the knurled teeth on the shaft to cut matching teeth in the lever, which then results in correct positioning of the two (2) part.

After the new parts have been installed, follow the system bleeding procedures to obtain proper clutch function.

1) Using Disconnect Tool (T88T-70522-A), disconnect coupling at transmission by lightly tugging on clutch tube while sliding White plastic sleeve toward slave cylinder. Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Using hand pressure, apply 10-15 pounds to clutch pedal. If pedal is hard, go to step 3). If pedal is spongy, go to next step.

2) Using a screwdriver, open valve of male coupling. Slowly depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. Remove screwdriver to close valve, and release clutch pedal. Ensuring reservoir is full, repeat step.

3) Close reservoir and reconnect coupling. Rapidly depress clutch pedal 5-10 times, wait 1-3 minutes, then repeat procedure 3 more times. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from entering bellhousing. Loosen bleeder screw and maintain fluid level in reservoir.

4) Fluid and bubbles will flow from hose attached to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw when fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure fluid level is correct and install reservoir cap.

5) Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level.

6) Test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift in Reverse. No grinding should be heard or felt when clutch pedal is within 1/2″ (13 mm) of floor. If noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.

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14
May/12

Acura and Honda vehicles with V6 engines, having problems with EGR trouble codes PO401 or P1491 and/or engine pinging.

by under Acura, Honda, Intake Manifold Repair, Saturn, Uncategorized

Acura and Honda’s with V6 engines, with EGR trouble codes and/or engine pinging. Check engine light on with DTC’s PO401 (insufficient EGR flow) or P1491 (insufficient EGR lift), This problem is due to the EGR port being clogged causing the failure. Honda has issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletins) TSB-99-085 for the corrective action for cleaning the EGR port, and installing new EGR pipe kit. TechSmart™ has also released a similar solution for unclogging and replacing the EGR port tube.

The TechSmart™ EGR fix consist of a tool kit B22001 a coated, stepped drill bit and a punch tool. The repair kit F23001, includes a new EGR tube, throttle body and EGR valve gasket.

Corrective Action for Cleaning the EGR port, and installing the EGR Pipe Kit
Applies For:
1998-00 Accords V6 – ALL
2001 Accord V6 – 4-door from VIN 1 HGCG 1…1 A000001 thru  1 HGCG1…1 A058564
2001 Accord V6 – 2-door from VIN 1 HGCG2…1 AO00001 thru   t HGCG2…1A023388

BACKGROUND: In some areas of the U.S., certain basic chemical properties of gasoline (regardless of brand) may cause the intake manifold EGR port to clog or the EGR valve to fail. If this happens, the MIL comes on with a DTC P0401 (insufficient EGR flow) or P1491 (insufficient EGR lift) stored.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the throttle body cover, intake manifold covers, ignition wire holder, and ignition wire cover.

2. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and the vacuum hose from the intake manifold
3. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold (two nuts and two bolts). Leave all hoses, cables, and electrical connectors connected to the throttle body. Discard the throttle body gasket.


4. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Remove the intake manifold (three nuts and six bolts).
5. Remove the intake manifold chamber, IAT sensor, boost plate, and PCV hose from the intake manifold.


6. Cover the six ports on the bottom of the manifold with duct tape.


7. Use a 8-mm drill bit and carburetor cleaner to clean the EGR port in the intake manifold. Turn the drill bit only by hand. Do not use a power drill.
8. Put the special drill bit from the EGR pipe installation kit in your power drill. Coat the drill bit completely with clean engine oil. NOTE: The oil coating is critical to drilling the hole accurately, and it contributes to drill bit life.
9. Insert the guide part of the drill bit into the EGR port. Make sure it is inserted fully. Then drill out the EGR port using steady pressure on the drill Make sure the port is drilled through completely.


10. Clean up the aluminum Chips from drilling, then remove the duct tape.
11. Put the Manifold in a parts washer (solvent or soap and water) and clean it thoroughly.
• Flush out the EGR port for 20 seconds.
• Flush out the manifold from the throttle body opening. Run cleaner down each side for 20 seconds.
• Flush each intake runner for 10 seconds. Start at the throttle body end and work towards the back.
• Turn the manifold so the throttle body opening is facing down. Flush each main runner for 20 seconds.
• Dry the manifold with compressed air and clean shop towels.


12. Place the EGR pipe from the kit into the EGR port.


13. Use the installation tool and a small hammer to drive the EGR pipe into the port until it is flush with the port. Make sure the pipe will not contact the gasket after installation.


14. Install the intake manifold chamber; torque the nuts and bolts to 12 N•m (8.7 lb-ft). Install the IAT sensor; torque it to 18 N•m (13 lb-ft). Install the boost plate; torque the bolts to 12 N•m (8.7 lb-ft). Install the PCV hose.
15. Inspect the EGR port in the front of the injector base on the engine. If it is partially or fully clogged, clean the port.
16. Disconnect the 6P connector from the EGR valve. Remove the
EGR valve.


17. Install the new EGR valve with newly supplied gasket; Torque the mounting nuts to 22 N•m (16 Ib-ft). Reconnect the 6P connector.
18. Install the intake manifold with the original gasket. Torque the mounting nuts and bolts to 22 N•m (18 lb-ft) sequentially in two or three steps. Route the PCV hose so it is not pinched under the intake manifold.


19. Install the PCV valve in the cylinder head cover.
20. Install the throttle body with a new gasket. Torque the mounting nuts and baits to 22 N•m (18 Ib-ft).
21. Reinstall the brake booster vacuum hose, vacuum hose, ignition wire holder, and all of the covers.
22. Connect the PGM Tester (loaded with SN200 or later software). Clear any DTCs.
23. Use the PGM Tester to override two-trip error detection.
• From the PGM tester menu, select 1. Honda Systems.
• Then select 2. SCS.
24. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure no new OTCs are set.

 

B22001 Tool kit
2001-2003,1997-1999 Acura CL
2003-2009 Acura MDX
1999-2008 Acura TL
1998-2007 Honda Accord
1999-2007 Honda Odyssey
2003-2008 Honda Pilot
2006-2008 Honda Ridgeline
2004-2007 Saturn Vue

F23001 Repair Kit
1999 Acura TL
1998-2001 Honda Accord
2006-2008 Honda Ridgeline
2004-2007 Saturn Vue

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10
May/12

2002-2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L (QR25DE engine) with the Check Engine light on? Code PO420? Exhaust rattling? Or seeing bluish smoke coming from your exhaust when you start the car or under acceleration?

by under Nissan, Uncategorized

It seems as if all of these complaints are quite common with the Altima 2.5L (QR25DE) engine: code PO420, exhaust rattling, and seeing bluish smoke coming from your exhaust. All these symptoms can point to the same cause: a bad exhaust manifold/catalytic converter.

The factory catalytic converter is designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle. With no moving parts it’s only function is to convert toxic chemicals in the exhaust into less toxic substances. The automotive catalytic converter core is usually a ceramic monolith with a honeycomb structure. The Catalyst is most often platinum, this precious metal allows a reaction that converts carbon monoxide (CO) and un-burned hydrocarbons (HC), and a reduction reaction converts oxides of nitrogen (NOx) to produce carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water (H2O). Failure of the catalytic converter is most-likely due to a fuel management problem, faulty ignition system or from chemical contamination like burning oil (the bluish smoke from the exhaust).

*Tech Note- Bluish smoke coming from your exhaust when you start the car or under acceleration is from burning oil. Typical oil consumption conditions are caused by worn engine parts like piston rings and valve guides/stem seals or a malfunctioning PCV system.

Why is this condition so common???? Nissan has done several Service Campaign Bulletins on this problem. If You’re experiencing a check engine light with code PO420 (3-way catalyst function) Nissan recommends contacting your local dealer to see if your ECM has the most current reprogramming. The code may be false, and the converter fine, the problem may actually just be as simple as a software update.

This Nissan 2.5L (QR25DE) engine is most-likely running at the borderline of its efficiency threshold. The exhaust gases are VERY hot right out of the engine, making the possibility of damaging the pre-catalyst. When these extreme conditions are present the pre-cat gets burnt, but why it’s getting burnt is debatable. Were these conditions caused by unburnt fuel from bad combustion due to fuel management or a fault ignition system. Or from excessive oil consumption, that bluish smoke from the exhaust system caused from worn engine parts. As the catalyst media break apart, the engine back-pressure under acceleration pulls these pieces into the combustion chamber. This catalyst material damages the piston rings resulting in increased oil consumption causing the problems to magnify.

Replacing the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter has a estimated labor time of 2.0 hours and is a very straight forward repair. However there are a few points of interest here. First, there is minimal room to get a wrench on the serpentine belt tensioner making a simple belt removal frustrating. Second, be careful with the manifold nuts/studs as they are know to break (weakened from excessive heat).  Lastly, the O2 sensors can be extremely difficult to remove. Think leverage and use a substantial breaker bar or extension to gain enough mechanical advantage.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND THREE WAY CATALYST


***First Check Vehicle for California Emissions, the label is located under the hood.
This info if for NON-CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS VEHICLES


Removal and Installation
REMOVAL
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Remove engine cover.
3) Remove the serpentine belt.

4) Disconnect alternator wiring and remove the alternator.


5) Disconnect the electrical connector of each heated oxygen sensor, and unhook the harness from the bracket and middle clamp on the cover. Remove the heated oxygen sensors.

6) Remove the lower exhaust manifold cover.
7) Remove the exhaust front tube, connected to the lower side of the manifold/cat.
*Spraying rust penetrant on exhaust bolts will help with disassembling these parts.
8 ) Remove the upper exhaust manifold cover.
9) Loosen the nuts in the sequence shown, on the exhaust manifold and three way catalyst.

10) Remove the exhaust manifold and three way catalyst assembly and gasket.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Pay attention to the following.

Tightening Exhaust Manifold Nuts
-Tighten the nuts in the numerical order shown, Torque manifold to 29-32 Ft. Lbs.
After tightening No. 5 retighten No. 1 and then No. 3 to specification.

*Installation of Air Fuel A/F Ratio Sensors and Heated Oxygen Sensors
Clean the A/F sensors and heated oxygen sensor threads, then apply the anti-seize lubricant to the threads before installing the A/F sensors or heated oxygen sensors.

CAUTION: Do not over-tighten the A/F sensors or heated oxygen sensors. Doing so may cause damage to the A/F sensors or heated oxygen sensors, resulting in a malfunction and the MIL coming on.

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12
Apr/12

APDTY.com Now Has Available Medium to Heavy Duty Truck Upgraded EGR Coolers From Bostech.

by under Uncategorized

THE EGR COOLER SOLUTION by BOSTECH

Bostech has the EGR cooler problem solved. Most OEM coolers are failing due to cracking, which causes the water and exhaust to mix, or from becoming clogged with exhaust deposits. Bostech has developed a process of making the cooler much more reliable and maintenance free.

The Bostech design uses T304 stainless steel tubing to replace the turbulator design used in most OEM coolers. The stainless steel tubing is tig welded to precision laser cut plates that are attached to the cooler housing. this will ensure the cooler will operate under the toughest of environments. This is a must for mass transit vehicles like school buses, ambulances, and wreckers/rollbacks.

Check out the Available EGR Cooler Product Line by Bostech 

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10
Apr/12

Installing a Fuel Pump with a New Harness Connector on a 1999-2003 Chevrolet or GMC Truck?

by under Chevrolet, GMC, Uncategorized

On many GM applications, the wiring harness that connects to the fuel pump assembly is not properly inspected as part of fuel system repair.  This harness is prone to failure, leading to misdiagnosis and vehicle come-backs. Connector housing cracks, pin and contact looseness, and wire crimp issues can cause symptoms that simulate an issue with the fuel pump. It is recommended that the wiring connector be replaced with the pump to avoid unnecessary problems.

* Tech Note- When replacing the fuel pump harness connector be sure to remove as much of the old wiring as possible. For example, if the connector had a poor connection this would create a resistance problem resulting in heat. This excessive heat melts the wiring insulation allowing moisture to enter and corrode the wiring, resulting in future problems.

ACDelco MU1613/19104406 Fuel Pump Module & Sender Assembly/Sending Unit
Replaces These Part #’s: 19153711, P74835M, 25345026, 19121626, MU1516, MU1089, 25162874
w/EVAP EMISSIONS SENSOR STAMPED TCF

How to identifying the Fuel pump wiring harness connector on 1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Trucks. First look at the new pig-tail connector, you can separate these 4 wires into two circuits by the gauge (diameter or thickness) of the wire, two wires will be bigger gauge  than the other two.  The thicker gauge wires are for the pump to handle the higher voltage drawl.  The smaller gauge wires are for the level sensor, a low voltage circuit.

Wiring color does vary from model to model, but with noting the wire diameter this is easy to work through.  Working with the larger two diameter wires first, the black wire (Pump Ground) will match to another large diameter black wire. The 12 volt pump feed wire will be most-likely gray but, is not unusual to see a white wire here (Just be sure of the gauge diameter).

Now working with the two smaller gauge wires for the fuel level sensor. The level sensor signal wire is purple and sometimes with a white tracer stripe, this will match up with the connector purple wire. For the level sensor reference wire, the orange/black wire (on the supplied connector) this will connect to the smaller black wire on the vehicle harness. *NOTE- On very early models this small black ground wire may not there, no problem,  just connect this wire to the other ground (the large diameter black wire).

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6
Apr/12

Loud exhaust noise from your Jeep? Replacing an Exhaust Manifold on a Jeep 4.0L engine

by under Jeep, Uncategorized

Replacing an exhaust manifold on a 4.0L jeep engine, This engine is common in many jeep models including the Cherokee, Grand Cherokee and Wrangler vehicles.

Check out APDTY.com for our Jeep exhaust manifold line of parts.

APDTY Product line includes exhaust manifolds with Life-time  Warranty’s!!!

Replacing the exhaust manifold requires that the intake manifold be removed also. The Jeep 4.oL engine design has the intake and exhaust manifold located on the same side of the cylinder head.

* The fuel system is under constant pressure. This pressure must be released before disconnecting.

1) Remove fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. Remove fuel pump relay from Power Distribution Center (PDC). PDC is located in the engine compartment near the battery. Start and run engine until it stalls. Attempt to restart engine until it will no longer kick over (or attempt to start).  Turn ignition off, this will lower the line pressure making it safer to remove fuel line later.

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air inlet tubing and air cleaner from the throttle body.

3) Disconnect throttle and cruise control (if equipped) cables. If your vehicle has a automatic transmission, disconnect the line pressure cable (kick down cable).

4) Unplug all electrical connectors from the intake manifold.

5)  Using a fuel line quick-disconnect fitting tool, disconnect the fuel line.

6) Loose the belt tenisoner and remove accessory drive belt.

7) Remove power steering pump and bracket. Use a strap to hold pump aside.

8 ) Remove fuel rail and injector assembly.

9) Disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.

10) Remove manifolds retaining bolts, and remove intake and exhaust manifolds as a assembly.

11) Ensure all gasket surfaces are clean, Install New gasket.

12) Install exhaust manifold and tighten bolt No. 3 finger tight.

13) Install intake manifold and remaining bolts loosely.

14) Inspect fuel o-ring and replace as needed. Reconnect fuel line.

15) Tighten manifold bolts in proper torque sequence.

16) Reverse removal procedure to complete remaining installation.

 

 

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3
Apr/12

Blower motor not working on all fan speeds? How to replace the blower motor resistor on a Chevrolet Silverado

by under Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC

Losing fan speed settings, is the most common complaint of a bad blower resistor.
On this 2001 Chevrolet Silverado  the customer has lost fan speeds 1 and 2.

Also check out APDTY.com’s Youtube Channel for this Repair

These Parts can be found at APDTY.com, Click here.

On the 1999-2007 General Motor Truck Series the blower resistor is located near the blower motor, under the glove box.  To gain access to the blower resistor you have to remove a cover box, held on by two 7mm bolts.

On this vehicle the customer has a aftermarket floor mat making it difficult to remove cover, so we will work around it. Normally this cover would be removed.  The blower resistor is mounted by two 5.5mm bolts, with two wiring connectors.

One is a 2-wire pigtail coming off the resistor going to the blower motor. This one is hard to reach, use a small screw driver to release the connector tab.  The other is a 7-wire connector from the A/C control head. This connector should be inspected for damage, it is very common to find a melted connection here that would require the pigtail connector to be replaced also.

To install, first connect the wiring.  But, before completing the reassembly, test the system for correct fan speed operation.

*Tech Tip- If your finding yourself replacing the blower resistor for the second time, most-likely the blower motor is a fault. As the blower motor wears, it is very common for the motor to demand more amperage.  This demand of more amps often is too much for the resistor, causing the resistor to fail prematurely. Check APDTY.com for the Blower Motor for Your Vehicle.

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2
Apr/12

Problems with your Nissan Maxima Power Window and Auto-Function Features? How to Check the Encoder & Limit Switch on your Maxima, I30 or I35.

by under Infiniti, Nissan, Window Motor/Regulator

2000-2003 Nissan Maxima
2000-2001 Infiniti I30
2002-2004 Infiniti I35

How to Check the Encoder & Limit Switch

1) Inspect suspect window slide mechanism. Ensure slide is free from debris or damage. Check for worn molding. Ensure window is not binding in the molding.  Repair as needed. If window is able to slide freely, go to next step.

2) Disconnect suspect window regulator connector. Access power window switch harness connector. Do not disconnect connector. Turn ignition on.  Back-probe connector, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 9. If voltage is present, go to next step.  If 5 volts is NOT present, replace window switch.

3) Connect suspect window regulator connector. Ensure window is fully open. Access power window switch harness connector. Do not disconnect connector. Turn ignition on. Back-probe connector, Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 9. Raise window while monitoring voltage. Voltage should remain at zero volts until window is within .59″ (15mm) of being closed. Once window opening is less than .59″ (15mm), voltage should be 5 volts. If voltage is as specified, go to step 5. If voltage is not as specified, go to next step

4) Reset suspect window limit switch (located on window motor). Fully close window. Press and hold reset switch on window regulator. Fully lower window. Release reset switch. Fully close window. Repeat step 3 at least 10 times. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, replace window regulator motor.

5) Further testing will require using an oscilloscope. Turn ignition on. Backprobe suspect window switch connector, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 9. Raise widow using automatic function Square wave pattern should oscillate between zero to 5 volts. If oscilloscope pattern is as specified, replace power window switch. If oscilloscope pattern is not as specified, replace window regulator motor.

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29
Mar/12

Replacing a Window Motor on a Subaru Impreza

by under Subaru, Uncategorized, Window Motor/Regulator

These instructions are for replacing a front window motor on 2002-2007 Subaru Impreza vehicles.

APDTY.com now offering Front Driver and Passenger Window Motors. These motors  are  factory original OEM parts, made in Japan.

Replaces Subaru OEM Parts # 61188-FE032 and 61188-FE022

1) Remove the front door trim.
*Caution, Do not apply excessive force to the clips. Otherwise the clip may be broken.
Pull up the inner remote cover toward you to remove the upper hook. Pull it down to remove the lower hook. Remove the inner remote cover.


2) Remove the screw, then remove the power window switch assembly and disconnect the harness connector.

3) Remove screw under window switch panel. Then remove the clips of the trim panel using clip remover (or flat-head screw-driver) to remove trim panel

4) Remove the Seal Cover. *Carefully remove sealer, Excessive force will easily break cover.

5) Remove the mirror gusset cover

6) Disconnect the mirror connector. Then loose the screws and remove mirror assembly.

7 ) Remove the stabilizers and trim hooks. (* Tech Tip, use a marker to trace outline for the position on installation)

8 ) Remove the rear end of door weather strip and weather strip outer.

9) Move glass to the position shown in the figure, then remove the two nuts from the service holes.

10) Remove the door glass.

11) Loosen the nuts to remove the rear sash.

12) Disconnect the motor connector.

13) Loosen four bolts and two nuts to remove the regulator assembly.

14) Loosen the screws to remove motor assembly.

For Installation, reverse the order of removal.

 

 

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