Ford F-250,F-350,Excursion Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions & Information

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Ford F250,F350, & Excursion Super Duty Wheel Hub Bearing Problems

Also can be used for 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Ford F250 & F350 Super Duty 4X4 Trucks.

Please call our ASE certified techs on duty at 1-866-770-2771 with any questions and please visit our website

Ford F250,F350, and Excursion trucks have a complete wheel and hub bearing assembly on each end of the front differential. These basically contain the wheel hub and bearing, the inner flange that bolts directly to the steering knuckle, the outer spindle that is splined for the outer hub locks, and the wheel studs. These bearing assemblies are prone to major wear and tear and usually have a life expectancy of 80,000-100,000 miles. The super duty trucks are usually used in rough work or jobsite use and are therefore prone to wheel bearing failure. When you are faced with replacement of these, the cost estimate to replace them can get very high. Usually both hubs are recommended to be replaced at the same time and also the brakes themselves are usually worn or are recommended to be replaced since they are being removed to replace the hubs. This is a very useful guide on everything you need to know to do this job yourself and save a ton of money. We know from personal experience that this job can be done in the driveway with standard tools.

Step 1. Diagnose the problem

A.     The first step is to make sure that it is indeed the bearing that is the problem. The most common symptom is noise. A failing bearing will usually start with low roaring, groaning, or growling sound. This sound is especially louder and more noticeable the faster you go. The diesel trucks are obviously a little more difficult to hear the noise due to the engine noise. The noise will usually start at 35-45 MPH and get more noticeable as you go. While going straight and at whatever speed makes the noise the most noticeable, slightly jerk the wheel left or right. The noise should go away and then immediatly come back as you straighten out. If this happens you can be almost certain that the bearing is failing. This is because by slightly jerking the wheel, you unload the bearing and then when you straighten up the load is re-applied to teh bearing.

B.     Another way to determine if the bearing is failed or failing is to jack up the vehicle and check the wheels for play. Due to the design of these hubs, they do often fail and create noise but do not have play, however when they do, you better replace it very soon. You should be very careful when checking because the tie rods and ball joints are also common to fail and they also can have play. Check for play from the center of the wheel. You do this by grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and shaking the wheel. Look closely for the pivot point of the play. This means the point of pivot will determine the part that is failed. If the pivot point is the center of the wheel, that is the bearing. If the pivot point is at the front or back of the wheel, this is a failed tie rod end. If the play is at the top or bottom of the whee, then this is a failed ball joint. Basically you should have absolutly zero play in the wheels and If you have play, then their is certainly a front end problem.

C.      The last method is if your ABS light is on. Many of the 1999 and later model F-Series trucks, have 4-Wheel ABS. This is an excellent safety feature and is really a plus to have. The 4 wheel ABS vehicles have a wheel speed sensor installed and built directly into the hub. The 4-wheel ABS system will have an ABS wheel speed sensor mounted at every wheel or atleast each front wheel and one in the rear differential. This system work by measuring the speed of each wheel and if it finds one that is not moving (locked up), then it releases the brake fluid to that wheel and allows it to spin again. This allows the driver to regain control of the vehicle instead of sliding off the road or into something else. Anyway if your ABS light is on, your diagnosis can be much easier. You will need access to a code reader or better yet a full blown scanner. Most Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts stores will plug in the scanner and read your codes for free. You want to find out the code that is set in the computer. The code will also tell you what system or in this case if you have a problem with an ABS sensor. Once you find out if you have a bad ABS sensor and hopefully you found out which wheel it is, you can look closer at that wheel. 9 times out of 10 a failed ABS sensor is a sign the bearing is failing and if it is failed this requires hub replacement anyway.

D.       When all else fails, a professional ASE certified technician is always your best option to verify the problem. These guys work on and see these types of problems on a daily basis and they can tell you with more certainty of the problem. These are expensive parts and when you replace one for no reason and still have a problem, no-one is happy, especially you. It is well worth a $20.00 safety inspection to have them go through all of this and tell you for sure exactly what the problem is.

Installation Instructions


1. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove the brake caliper by removing the caliper anchor plate. Do not hang caliper by the flexible brake hose as this may damage the brake hose. If the caliper is stuck, you can open the master cylinder and the take a wide flathead screwdriver and slightly pry the caliper open. You can do this by wedging the flathead between the brake pads and the rotor. Only a slight movement is neccessary. Remove the brake rotor by sliding it off. Remove the hub snap ring with snap ring plyers or suitable tool. Pull and remove hub lock. Remove snap ring and thrust washer from axle shaft and set aside in the way they came off. Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensor connector, harness and harness routing clips if equipped. (NOTE-rear wheel ABS only vehicles will not have this wire.(hub par #: F81Z1104EE is non-ABS)

2. Remove 4 lock nuts from behind hub. These buts and bolts can sometimes be heavily rusted and corroded. We at AutoPartsDirectToYou do have the factory Ford nuts and bolts available if needed. These are very cheap and usually well worth purchasing beforehand if you are not sure their condition. Otherwise getting stuck without these with the vehicle all apart is a headache. Please call us at 1-866-770-2771 or email us through eBay and we can get you a set. Also when going through our checkout procedure you may be prompted to add those to the shopping cart. After removing the 4 lock nuts, the hub can be removed. The hub and bearings assembly is a slip fit design and should not require a puller.

NOTE: For factory instructions with pictures please email Click the contact seller link to send us an email or call us at 1-866-770-2771!!


1. Install New Hub & Bearing O-ring (may not be included all all hub bearings). Apply a coat of high temperature wheel bearing grease to O-ring area of hub  bearing assembly. Install hub and nuts, replace nuts and studs if damaged. IMPORTANT- Install non-metallic thrust washer between 2 metal thrust washers. Install all 3 washers. (Failure to install these washers properly can cause damage to your new hub bearing assembly).

2. Reverse removal procedure of remaining parts. If your vehicle is equipped with vacuum hub locks, a wheel end vacuum leak test should be done. If you would like instructions on performing that test click here*****. Tighten all remaining bolts and nuts to factory torque specs below.

3. VERY IMPORTANT – Before driving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times to get the pedal high and hard again. If any hydraulic lines were opened a brake bleeding should be done. Usually opening the bleeder and allowing the brakes to gravity bleed is the best method for this. Any questions please call our ASE certified technicians at 1-866-770-2771.

We supply this as informational purposes only and you must decide if
you are capable or mechanically inclined enough to do this repair.

Thanks for reading our guide and here are some links to more of our stuff:


ASE Certified Auto Technician 16+ Years Of Auto Repair Experience

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19 Responses

  1. Carp; says:

    I have toyota 4unner, what happens when the wheel bearing goes out and is it safe to drive and for how long after you start hearing the growling noice?

  2. Joel says:

    To: Carp
    The first typical symptom of a failing wheel bearing ( hub bearing or regular tapered bearings) is noise. The noise is usually noticed most at moderate speeds(30-50MPH). The noise should be a low growling or grumbling sound and also can sound like a loud tire or loud road noise. If you experience noise, you wnat to inspect it or have it inspected as soon as possible. Any noise out of the ordinary is typically something failing or already failed and can be a safety issue. The bearings and all the front end parts on most vehicle’s can be inspected fairly easy. You should raise the vehicle (on a lift preferably but it can be raised and put on jack stands also) and then begin the inspection. It is easier if you have a partner helping. One person grabs the wheel and shakes as the other watches for play at all points of interest. The wheel should be shaken while holding it at the 3 oclcock and 6 oclock positions and shaken from side to side. The other person should be looking at the center of the back of the wheel and look for anything that is loose. Then the partner inspecting needs to look at all other front end items such as inner and outer tie rod ends, ball joionts, etc, then the rest of the steering and suspension components. Then the person shaking the wheel can shift positions and shake the wheel while holding it at the 12 & 6 Oclock positions and the inspector looks at each spot all over again. This also can be done by taking it to a shop and paying them $15-$20 which is the average price for a non-dealership to inspect it, some even still do it for free but that is getting more and more rare.

  3. Bruce Chovnick says:

    My 2002 4×4 F250 makes a sound like small pebbles rattling around in a hub-cap when I turn either direction at about 5 mph while in 2 wheel drive (there are no pebbles…I checked). I don’t hear any sound going straight, nor do I hear anything at higher speeds. I’ve tried rocking the hubs up/down and there is no free-play at all.

    So before I start tearing the hubs apart, I just want to be sure there is a problem and that I am addressing the actual cause.

  4. marcus says:

    hi i was travelling along today & noticed a high pitch squeal , like the brake squeal when its getting low. got home , took wheels off , looked at brakes , not needed replacing, a long way off even.

    looked at the back of the hub and noticed a rubber/plastic seal just floating there. , if its any help.
    i put some grease around the area & the noise stopped , could this still be my problem. , thanks

  5. Robert says:

    Hi. I have a 2002 F250 4X4 with a 6.8L V10. I am replacing my hubs this weekend. When I hit a bump in the road it’ll start vibrating really rough and when I hit another bump it’ll stop. How I diagnosed it was removed my wheels and locked/unlocked my hubs also turning my half-shafts. My hubs don’t fully disengage thus turning my front end and vibrating the entire truck. By locking them in you prevent that noise, yet I don’t recommend driving like this for long. I am a construction foreman thus I am in dirt/mud almost full time, the bearings were bound to go anyway. Thanks for reading, hope the info helped with diagnosis.

  6. Michael says:

    I have a 1999 F350 dully 4×4 and I have trouble with the small inner bearing going out way to soon I can move the axle shaft up and down and side to side is there any way to get grease to this bearing short of tearing the whole thiing down and what is the difference between the single wheel and the dull rear wheel trucks when it comes to the frunt wheel bearings?
    Thank you

  7. Chris says:

    where are these located: and where do I get them? IMPORTANT- Install non-metallic thrust washer between 2 metal thrust washers. Install all 3 washers. (Failure to install these washers properly can cause damage to your new hub bearing assembly).

  8. haik says:

    I have a ford f250 4×4 and I am changing the hub bearing assembly and the steering knuckle seal , I have a plastic washer that goes between them that is flat on one side and has slots on the other side . I need to how to place the washer

  9. Katelyn says:

    I have a 2001 ford f350 7.3ltr. turbo diesel crew cab.
    I took it to the dealership because the four wheel drive wasnt working.
    Even when i did it manualy.
    They told me it was a leak from the vacuum hub locks.
    I asked them what i’d need to repair it, they printed me out a diagram of the parts, and there location and price but did’nt give me the names of the parts or the part number.
    What do i do?
    I don’t know what parts they are so i can’t call a parts store.
    My truck needs its four wheel drive back before snowfall.
    What do i do?

  10. Dan says:


    You have 2 seals; the yellow seal (O ring) on the inner side of the hub assembly and the black on the locking hub. I would try replacing the (easiest to get at) black seal (O ring). Just use pliers to remove the visable ring then keep working at trying to remove the locking hub. Try hand on one side pulling and rubber mallet hitting on other side.

    It has been 16 days and no reply. I have been 2 weeks working on my front hub assemblies. Learning a few hard knocks.

  11. Corey says:

    I have an ’01 Excursion 7.3. I have been having an odd noise coming from the left front. It sounds like a humming/rubbing noise. It can happen at highway speeds and seems to occur after the vehicle has been running for 15-20 minutes. It most commonly occurs when I hit a bump. If I flip my 4WD High ON, it stops. Turn 4WD OFF, and hit the next bump, it starts humming again. I changed my brak pads and rotors this weekend, and took it out on Monday. I drove the 40 minutes to work and it was fine. On the ride home about 30 mins into the trip it started humming again. There seems to be no rhyme or reason, and the ABS light has not come on. Could this be the bearings? and why would it be intermittent? Any help would be appreciated. I am a girl and I’m tired of being taken advantage of at the mechanics!

    • Travis B says:


      i have been having the same problem. over the week end i have replaced both front hubs and axel seal and i still havnt figured the problem out yet. i was doing the same as you putting it in and out of 4×4 high and it would go away. Today im gonna try to redo my locking hubs and see if that will help. I’m letting you know this so you dont put over 800 in new parts and still not have it fixed like i have. i’ll let you know if it fixes it.

  12. George says:

    What would be the correct value for the “hours labor” that a mechanic can charge for replacing the wheel hub assembly on a 2003 Ford F-250 4X4 – 7.3 ?
    On just one wheel

  13. Diane says:

    I have an F250 – early 1999. No ABS. Where can I get a front wheel hub bearing? thank you!! No ABS.

  14. Brady says:

    I have a Ford F250 (lifted) and it shakes/vibrates when I turn left or right from a complete stop. After doing some research online, it seems the problem might be failed hubs that need to be replaced. Do you think that is the problem, and have you heard similar stories? Thanks for any help you can offer.

  15. worldclock says:

    Ford F-250,F-350,Excursion Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions & Information AutoPartsDirectToYou.Info – just great!

  16. Mark says:

    I have an F350 7.3 4×4 super duty diesel My front wheel bearing Assy is going out. Pep Boys wants $700. For both fronts. Please send any info to help. Maybe I can change myself for less money.

    Thank you


  1. October 17, 2007

    […] Luckily one of our savy shop customers went through the work to figure out the difference between the early and later model hubs on the F250 & F350 Super duty pickups. What they found can help save many people lots of money and time. This is a very simple conversion and costs half of what the dealer charges for these hubs alone. Their is a kit that can be purchased that would include 2 new front hub and bearings assemblies and 2 new brake rotor assemblies. This kit costs a fraction off what the dealer sells it for and it is the same quality parts. Their are 2 different kits available, one for 4-Wheel ABS and one for Rear-Wheel ABS only. If you have any questions please call us toll free at 1-866-770-2771. We at AutoPartsDirectToYou would be glad to help and we can also provide detailed instructions for installation. Please check out this guide for more info. Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Ford F-250 Super Duty,F-350 & Excursion […]

  2. January 19, 2016

    […] in 1 Post Feedback Score: 0 reviews Maybe this helps. I can't speak from experience. Ford F-250,F-350,Excursion Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions & Information ? Auto… superchaos is online now   Quote Quick […]

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