Chevy Silverado 4×4 Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

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Here is another great set of do-it-yourself instructions submitted by one of our customers. These will work for many Chevrolet and GMC 4×4 Pickups including: GMC Yukon, Denali, Sierra, Tahoe, Z71, Suburban, Silverado, Escalade, Avalanche, Savanna, and Chevy Express.

Shop for this hub bearing at AutoPartsDirectToYou.com on ebay
These came specifically from a:

2003 Chevy Silverado 4×4

1. Using a 22mm socket, by hand, remove hubcap from wheel.

2. Lift vehicle with jack and support properly.

3. Using 22mm socket or vehicle lug wrench remove lug nuts, remove wheel and set aside.

4. Using a T55 Torx socket, remove the 2 caliper bolts. Set caliper aside. Do not let caliper hang from rubber brake line.

5. Using a 18mm socket remove the two caliper mount bolts. Remove caliper mount and brake rotor and set aside.

6. Using a couple small screwdrivers gently pry the dust cap from the hub. Be careful not to damage it.

7. Using a 1 3/8″ or 35mm socket, remove the axle nut.

8. Using a 15mm socket remove the three hub mounting bolts.

9. Using a small hand sledgehammer and a couple screwdrivers, remove the hub assembly. Unplug the sensor wire and remove. Use the screwdrivers to keep the gap open while hitting hub with hammer.

10. Clean the hub mounting area completely with a wire brush.

11. Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the hub and hub mounting area. Install the brake rotor shield and put hub over axle.

TIP. Be Careful not to get anything on or near the ABS sensor, This may cause the ABS light to illuminate after completion!!

12. Apply thread locker to the 3 hub mounting bolts and install using a 15mm socket.

13. Install the axle nut using the 1 3/8″ or 35mm socket. VERY IMPORTANT- Do not over or under torque this nut. Improper torque of the axle nut is the number one cause of premature bearing failure and does void the warranty!! For a 2003 Silverado the axle nut torque is 156 ft lbs. For any other vehicle please refer to the factory toque specs or you may email or call www.AutoPartsDirectToYou.com at 1-866-770-2771.

14. Install the dust cover by tapping lightly around edges.

15. Install the caliper mount and caliper using the 18mm socket and T55 torx.

16. Install the sensor wire using the included mounting hardware and plug the sensor in.

17. Install wheel and hub dust cover using the 22mm socket.

Test drive and make sure all of your noises are gone!!

Click here for chevy truck wheel hub bearings and more!!

Joel

ASE Certified Auto Technician 16+ Years Of Auto Repair Experience

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55 Responses

  1. Russ says:

    When removing the hub, the hub and the inner sleeve that goes over the axle came out, but the flange and the outer part of the hub stayed frozen to the knuckle.. any suggestions on how to remove the rest of it?

  2. Joel says:

    Thanks, It would be best to call us and we can give you some suggestions to take care of that. Our toll free Tech Support number is 1-866-770-2771, Thanks

  3. Steve says:

    I had the same problem as Russ had where i could not remove hub assembly from knuckle. Local machine shop pressed this out for $20.

  4. Alan says:

    I have a 2002 Avalanche, what is the torque spec for the hub nut?

  5. Gary says:

    Can you please tell me what the torque spec for the front hub nut on a 2006 chevy silverado 2500 hd lt 4wd diesel 6.6

  6. JIm says:

    Just completed the passenger side on my 2002. It was a bear to get three mounting bolts out, but soaked them with good ole WD-40, and they finally came. Make sure to use a 6 point wrench. I darn near stripped one of them with a 12 point!! I got it done, and guess what? The drivers side now making noise!! Go figure!

  7. Damon says:

    would you recommend trying this if you are not very familiar with working on vehicles? Mechanic is wanting 800.00 to replace both hub bearings??

  8. JOEL says:

    LOOK AT THE INSTRUCTIONS AND SEE IF IT IS SOMETHING YOU CAN SEE YOURSELF DOING! I WOULD TRY IT! IT IS A GREAT FIRST TIME PROJECT. WE ALSO HAVE A VIDEO PAGE NOT SURE IF THERE IS A VIDEO ON THERE BUT CHECK IT OUT AUTOMECHS.COM. IF U HAVE QUESTIONS CALL US 1-866-770-2771

  9. Andy says:

    This is not something you want to start into without a cheater pipe. You will most likely need it for the axle nut and the bolts that hold the caliper mounts. The center hub bolt is bear too. Make sure to use a quality wrench to prevent stripping both wrench and bolt. Took me about 3hrs start to finish including locating tools, moving cars, and cleanup. Got the torque wrench and axle nut socket through autozone on their tool loan thing, and used the Timken hub assembly. Pretty straight forward. This helped.

  10. Ed says:

    These instructions and talking to Joel helped alot. The old hub assembly rusted to the knuckle. Had to remove 6 bolts holding the axle and carefully lowered out of way. Than ended up cutting/banging old bearing away. Done now but people working on older vehicles wear they salt roads at winter will have to fight to get the old hub off. Thanks for help Joel!

  11. Glenn says:

    What is the torque for the axle nut on a 2006 4X4

  12. Bill Carson says:

    This blog saved my butt. Thank you!

  13. Jeremy says:

    We are trying to get the hub assembly off of our 2003 2wd chevy and it seems to be rusted on. We tried heating it, WD-40, hitting it with the screwdriver and hammer, three jawed tool, and nothing seems to be working! It is to the point where we can’t safely drive it down to a shop now.
    Any advice????? PLEASE!???

  14. Glenn says:

    I am in need of the torque needed when replacing front bearing assembly hub on 2004 Z-71 4×4, and should I stick with factory parts or is the Timkin assembly for 169.00 OK? Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

  15. Jimmy says:

    I purchased the Timken Hub for my 2004 2500 HD 4×4 Duramax. Anyone happen to know the torque specs for my truck?

    Much Obliged,

    Jimmy

  16. Duramax says:

    I too had to replace my hub bearings on my duramax. It is a 2004 hd 3/4 ton. The brake braket is 221 ft pounds, the axle nut is 160 ft pounds and the four bolts, holding the hub on is 133 ft pounds. This is what i done mine at after many hours of research, I just replaced them two weeks ago.

  17. Dave Gillingham says:

    Thanks so much for the excellent advice on how to change out the hub assembly! My 2003 2500HD 4×4 differed somewhat from the instructions (no Torx, bolts for example), but it wasn’t a problem. The caliper bolts (22mm) were a bear, but everything else went smoothly. I used a NAPA hub. My truck only has 56K on it, and my right hub assy was totally shot. I have never off-roaded the truck, and it has only been in 4wd about 4 times for very short distances. The fact that the hubs are so easy to get suggests that this is a serious weak spot in the design.

  18. mikeh says:

    Anybody know What the torque for the axle nut on a 2006 4X4 and if the bearing is pressed on?
    thanks

  19. mikem says:

    Torque is 155lb or 204nm according to partswholesale one of the manufactures

  20. John Barwiler says:

    How do you get the hub mounting bolts off if there stripped

  21. Jeremy says:

    Nice tutorial, very helpful. I am going to suggest it to the users over at Mudding.org. Thanks.

  22. Drake says:

    Is it possible to go from automatic four wheel drive hubs to stander ed warn hubs for a 2005 chevy silverado,and is it costly ??

  23. mike says:

    Wondering torque of axle nut on a 99 gmc suburban 1/2 ton

  24. Phil says:

    What is the torque for the three bolts holding the hub assembly for a 2003 chevy HD 4×4.

  25. Travis says:

    I had to take the axel off past the covered universal joints with the tire still on, raise and remove the tire and then hammer it out of the bearing with a brass punch before I removed it from the spindle. Now I need the torque specs for those six (I think six maybe eight) axle bolts to put it back. Any suggestions?

  26. Brett says:

    I replaced mine today on a 2004 Silverado 1500 4×4. I had to buy a new shield because I bent one getting the old hub off and couldn’t pound it back straight. $22 at the local Chevy dealer and it went together easily. For those looking for torque specs, I suggest getting the Haynes manual for your vehicle. All the torque specs are in there. Good luck and thanks for the guide!

  27. I tried hammer and srewdriver and wd 40 all of the above etc. then I bought a $26. air chisel and hub came off like nothing, also make shore you use 6 point socket and wrenches with cheater pipe if needed

  28. Tim says:

    I used this method today to replace my right front hub/bearing. Great How-To. Make sure to loosen the axle nut before you take the wheel off, also I found that using a metal chisel and slowly working the gap between the knuckle and hub works well for getting the hub to break free, slow process but there is no giant swinging sledge hammer. Thanks for the help!

  29. BigDaddy says:

    In case anyone is wondering how to get the hub separated from the knuckle, you can remove the hub/knuckle assembly completely by removing the nuts on the upper and lower ball joint, keep the socket on the nuts, and hit them with a hammer. If you go from one bolt to the next, it will come out. This is how I did mine. Another way is just using a chisel and hammer, and hit the chisel right at the point where the castings meet. If you change your position every time, it will eventually separate. I have done this method as well.

  30. navyrugger says:

    This may sound like a stupid question. No where in the directions does it say to grease the new hub bearing. Is that because it’s taken for granted or is the hub assembly a sealed bearing which requires no grease?

  31. Dennis says:

    The hub assembly comes greased and ready to bold on.. I am no mechanic by any means, but I was able to tackle this job on my own, and keep about 6-800 dollars in my own pocket. So I do recommend trying to do this job on your own if ya wanna save money! Great first project for beginners!

  32. Jak says:

    Been working on this for around 4 hours, including the time we spent trying to hunt down a 6-point box end 15mm wrench in a small town with no hardware/tool store worth mentioning. 12-point 15mm wrenches slip on the hub bolts. There is absolutely no way to get a socket on the top bolt without breaking the spindle loose from the upper ball joint, which took another hour of hunting down a ball joint separator. I beat on the hub for around 15 minutes with a hammer and it WILL NOT move. The chisels come out tomorrow. This is a friend’s truck. I’m glad it’s not mine. The only thing I’ve learned so far is that I will NEVER own a Chevrolet pickup. I hope everyone here has better luck than we have.

    • Steve says:

      Did you have any luck as I beat on mine for over an hour and it didn’t budge

      • Drew says:

        Beating the hub as shown would not always work, the force of the hit would be softened as the bearings are shot which is why you are replacing it in the first place. A sharp chisel point and a few solid hits at the mounting interface working on one side then the other should break it free.

  33. georgie says:

    I want to now in what direction the nut is removed from the hub bearing in 2002 avalanche. Thanks for your help.

  34. georgie says:

    I want to know in what direction the nut is removed from the hub bearing in 2002 avalanche. Thanks for your help.

  35. greywolf40 says:

    I made a little video of the replacement procedure, you can view it here:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR4KMxcnrQI

    Hope it helps!

  36. Jim says:

    On the 2003 Silverado 2500 HD 4×4. the 1 3/8″ (35mm) axel nut torque is 177 ft.lbs. I just checked with the G.M. service dept.

  37. kelly says:

    The hub nut torque on 2004 silver crew cab is 177 ft lbs. The three hub bolts torque are 92ft lbs. Just did both front hubs today good 2 1/2 hour job

  38. Mike says:

    Just finished job came here to find the size of the Bearing preload nut (as nothing I had fit) saw the comments on hub being “stuck” to the control arm’s and issues getting a socket on the three 15 mm bolts.

    Use a wrench on the 15 mm bolts that are to hard to get a socket ratchet assembly on , and as for freeing the “stuck” hub … it is your old one anyway don’t be afraid to hit it … and HIT IT HARD front and back put a ratchet extension or a large punch threw the abs sensor hole in the dust shield/backing plate and hit the back of the wheel studs as hard as you can, then hit the opposite front (remember you are trying to get the hub to wiggle out) do that a couple of times then try the opposite hitting the outside left and inside right when the dust shield is loose you are making progress.

  39. Peter Kuoppala says:

    Do you have new hub mounting bolts to my Suburban 1500 4wd -03
    Lives in Sweden and cant find new mounting bolts :(

  40. Wayne says:

    Great resource. Just completed right hub on my 02 2500HD 4×4 in about 1 1/2 hours. (would have been closer to 1 hour but my locktite was dried out and had to go get a new tube).

    I found that turning the wheels from side to side made access to the hub bolts easy, using an extension. Also, by putting it in 4 wheel drive, it was easier to torque up the axel nut because that locked the front hub from spinning. Just remember, a cheater bar is your friend!

  41. Big Dave says:

    Ok, my 2006 Z71 is howling down the freeway so loudly that i can’t hear my radio. I’m hoping it’s the wheel bearing. Sounds exactly like a loud mudd tire, we’ll see. I just now finally got the axle nut off and broke two breaker bars doing it. My 35mm 6 point socket seams slightly loose and pops off the nut quite easily. I had to rig a metal strap over the socket and attached the ends to the lug nuts to hold the socket tight. I bought a new craftsman 18″ breaker bar and a 2″ extension. I slid a two foot cheater pipe on and jumped up and down many times before that nut would break loose. Just sayin’ that the nut may be an issue for some people.

    • Big Dave says:

      Update! The hub nut was 36mm! I really think it’s 35.5 though. I was also able to fit a 12 point 1 3/8 on it with a tap of a hammer but don’t recommend since a 36mm 6 point will work fine. I could not remove the right side hub nut even with cheater (was getting dangerous). The local repair shop loosened it a half turn for me with a powerful impact gun and i did the rest. The rest was easy. The hub came out with no hammering or prying. Both hubs were blue inside and around the edges were the 3 bolts hold it on. Obviously got very hot which may explain the excessively tight nut. The ride is totally quiet now. I paid $70 for each hub on amazon. No other parts required.

  42. Bob Leiby says:

    I am in the process of replacing the hubs on my 2000 Suburban, 4wd. I finally was able to loosen the caliper bolts, the caliper bracket bolts, the hub bolts, and the axle nut. All were a bear with no give at all. I used a breaker bar with a pipe extension. I thought things were getting a bit dangerous.

    I read on the internet about using PB Blaster. I had used WD-40 but to no avail. I was amazed that after tapping the bolts wita a hammer (to loosen any rust) and spraying on the PB Blaster, all the bolts and the nut came free. I applied the PB Blaster several times. I used the breaker bar and a pipe, and the bolts came loose. I am a believer in the PB Blaster. It works. The T55 torx bit kept slipping out of the caliper pin bolt. I used a wide throat clamp to keep the bit in the caliper pin.

    Now its time to knock out the hub.

  43. Josh says:

    I just replaced both front hubs on my ’05 z71, and here are the lessons I learned:
    1.) PB Blaster and Harbor Freight are going to be your best friends for this job. The torque spec on my truck was 177 Ft-lbs, and I found a decent torque wrench at harbor freight for $75. If a bolt will not turn, soak it in PB blast for ten minutes and try again.
    2.) The 1 3/8″ socket fit better on my axle nut than the 35mm. Your results may vary. Also, ensure you have a replacement nut on hand- it is a locking nut and will work its way loose if you do not replace it when you take it off
    3.) When removing the hub from the steering knuckle I had to work my way around with a flush edged wood chisel (works better than a screwdriver , lots of PB blast, gentle taps of a BFH/pine board, and plenty of patience. I used to have to do this to break down large valves for repair and it has never steered me wrong. Once you get a gap, start using a pry bar.
    4.) ANTI-SEIZE! These bearing have a tendency of going out, and I don’t feel like beating a hub out of a steering knuckle again. I wire brushed and anti-seized the areas that were rusted together. If I have to take this off again and it is still rusted I may break down and use POR-15 instead.

    I hope this saves some people some headaches… it is a pretty easy job but the results are well worth it!

  44. You made some decent points there. I checked on the internet for more
    information about the issue and found most people will
    go along with your views on this site.

  45. jeff says:

    just relaced the hub assembly on a 05 silverado z71. wasnt to hard,had some problems breaking the hub lose but nothing a wood chisle with some light taps didnt take care of. after it was lose i used a small pry bar to help get it all the way off. do recomend pb blasting everything 15-30 min before , just to help breaking everything lose. i used a 36mm socket to losen the axle nut,it seemed a little to big but worked. i think a 35mm ot 1 3/8 might have been better. over all it went pretty good.

  46. Steve Rencher. says:

    I had to replace the front right hub on my 07 silverado. It was at about 60,000 miles. I’ve doubled that now and the other still holding up. I wasn’t happy but my dad owns a Nissan Titan. He had to pay 2500 dollars to get all 4 wheel bearings replaced on it. It’s not just Chevy that puts poor quality parts on. Other Titan owners have similar problems.

  47. msgrayback says:

    I was taught to put wheel bearing grease on the splines-not never seize.

  48. MikeMadden says:

    The instructions were great; thanks for the clear step-by-step.One axle down one to go. Did forget to mention that some (mine is a 2009 Silverado 4×4) rotors have a star bit countersunk screw that needs to be removed (but not replaced). Fortunately I had a bit sitting in my misc bit collection box that fit.

  49. bill says:

    1999 suburban help – has anyone modified the 1999 and down 4wd spindle to take the 2000 and up hub?? two out of three bolts stripped out taking it apart and the helicoil set i need isnt going to arrive for almost a week!! have the 2000 and up hub in front of me, same splines, same bearings internally, in place just need to flatten out the back of the spindle to seat the bolt head??

  50. Mark says:

    To get the hub out, i tried everything. I really mean that. I went to Harbor Freight and bought an 8″ 3 Jaw Puller made by Pittsburgh Automotive #69224 for 16 bucks. Buy one before you start this job! Came right out!
    If it doesnt come out with 3 jaw puller, you forgot to take out all the bolts on the hub. I had 3.
    I replaced a few that I found at Napa Auto. Very hard to find. Odd Thread count. Be careful! Other bolts will go quite a ways in before stripping.

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