Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

98 99 00 01 02 03 Ford Ranger Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions

Article from  ‘ The Ranger Station Technical Library ‘


Story By Valley Customs

now you’ve probably realized that the replacements of the 98-00 Ranger
hubs suck. Not only are the parts expensive, but you need “special
tools” to replace them, hopefully this article will help make that
replacement a little easier.

Step 1 – Locating Replacement Parts 

After realizing that the hub bearing units are not serviceable, I began
my search for replacements. After days of searching I came up with these
numbers as of 1/07.

AutoPartsDirectToYou.com $159.99

AutoZone: $377

Advanced Auto: $275

Ford Dealer: $277

I was surprised to see that the Ford dealer’s price was actually lower
than the aftermarket stores. That would have been my top choice if I had
not found AutoPartsDirectToYou.com. Of course I’d look into seeing if
the Ford unit came with all the parts if you are going to pursue that
avenue. I was told by the associates at AutoPartsDirectToYou.com that
this unit comes with a mfg. lifetime warranty.

Here’s the picture of the bearing from AutoPartsDirectToYou.com

Step 2 – Removal 
  Remember this is just a rough guide on how I replaced the bearings using
bits and pieces of info from my repair manual, on the Internet, and from
Ford. I’m not sure if this is the correct repair procedure, but it
worked for me.


For those of us without the special 6 piece Ford hub removal tool you
will need to locate

(6) jig saw blades or similar size steel strips and
a roll of tape.
(You’ll see why in a little bit). You’ll also need
standard hand tools, metric wrenches & sockets, a few hammers,
screwdrivers, snap ring pliers & a large c-clamp.


1.) Loosen the front lug nuts and secure the front end of the truck up
on jack stands.

2.) Remove the tires and brush any mud or debris off the hub assembly.

3.) Remove the dust shield

4.) Compress the disk brakes with a c-clamp and remove the caliper.

5.) Remove the rotor

6.) If you have the hub removal tool, remove the hub and move on to step 8?

6a.) If not, take the 6 jig saw blades and gently insert them in the hub
hold down tabs. After you’ve inserted them carefully pry up the tabs by
pushing down on the blades, I found it helpful to tape over each blade a
few times holding it securely in place, as seen in the picture below.


7.) Now that you’ve released the hub clips you will need to pull off the
hub. I found the easiest way was to take a medium size standard
screwdriver and twist between the tape on the metal hub and the plastic.
If you’re lucky it will move about 1/16th of an inch or so. If it does,
rotate the hub and continue with this process in the 5 other slots. I
also found it helpful to keep constant pressure on it by pulling away;
this kept the hub from sliding back into the original position. Again,
as you can see in the picture below.

7a.) Once you’ve cleared the clips, you can pull it out the rest of the
way, just make sure you are pulling perpendicular to the hub as it will
reduce binding and make the removal easier.

7b.) If the hub doesn’t move use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove
the outer cap of the PVH system. A 1/8″ turn CCW will disengage the
pins and allow you to pull out the guts of the hub system. Don’t worry
if they all come apart, I’ll show you later how to clean them and put it
all back together. Once the guts have been removed you can spray some
penetrating oil inside to help loosen things up. 

Another tip: The day I did this job it was 13 degrees F out and I
found that since everything was frozen, heating up the hub with a
hairdryer helped loosen things up.

8.) Remove the dust shield and the three bolts holding the bearing
assembly on. 

Tip: Use that penetrating oil generously, it’ll only help loosen
things up & the longer it sits on the parts the more effective it
will work

9.) Now that you’ve got the bolts loosened up, tap the bearing assembly
around with a hammer; hopefully it’ll loosen up. Remember though its
still connected to the drive axel so don’t just pull it out.

10.) You might have to clean out all the grease, but there is a plastic
and metal snap ring inside, use the snap ring pliers to remove it. 

Tip: I found that every time I went to pull out the snap ring it
would fall off the pliers, to solve this problem I would open up the
snap ring and rather then pull the snap ring out, I’d push in the drive
axel until it was over the shoulder.

11.) After you’ve removed the snap ring and the hub is loose, you should
remove the ABS wire (if your truck has front ABS). Then just pull the
hub/bearing assembly out.

PVH Assembly

I decided that now would be a good time to clean out the PVH. You’ll
notice that the system contains just 6 major parts: the hub body, 2
white pieces, a spring, the rubber diaphragm and the cap. 

How it works. 

To engage the hubs, the system puts a vacuum on the rubber diaphragm
which compresses the white assembly about ¾ of an inch. This releases
the spring and puts pressure on the ring gear which connects the hub to
the drive axel. It takes an average of 45 seconds to pull enough of a
vacuum to engage.

To disengage the hubs, the system puts less of a vacuum on the diaphragm
only pulling it down about ¼ of an inch; this aligns 2 small tabs
inside the white assembly and keeps the spring compressed. As a result
of the spring being compressed the ring gear disengages from the hub and
drive axel, unlocking the hubs.

The whole system works kind of like a click pen.

If the guts spilled all over the place when you removed the cap, here is
a picture showing the order they go back together.

Step 3 – New Hubs  

The new hub/bearing assemblies did not come with new o-rings and mine
were in pretty good shape so I decided to reuse them. Note: I’d suggest
using new ones to keep the shaky vacuum system in good working order.
You can see in the pictures what o rings I’m talking about.


Step 4 – Reinstallation

The reinstallation is pretty straight forward; just reverse the removal
process. Remember to put some wheel bearing grease on those o-rings and
all mating surfaces; this will help with the install and removal if you
ever have to take them out again.



Dodge Ram 4×4 Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

We found these instructions online and posted them for the use of our customers.

Cost of Replacement-



Discount Auto Parts-280.00


I had to replace passenger side front Dana 44 axle hub (unit bearing) and the axle u-joints after 100,000 miles on my non-ABS 97 Dodge Ram 1500. To check for hub failure prior to the wheel falling off, you can jack up the wheel, grab the top and bottom and try to wiggle it . If it moves, then you need hubs or ball joints. Watch the ball joints for movement. If they stay put, then the hubs are bad. Although they can be pricey, I recommend replacing both driver and passenger side hubs at the same time.

To start, block the rear wheel and jack the front end up. Support with jack stands. Remove the wheels. Remove the cotter pin from the hub nut.

In order to remove the hub nut, you will need to either have someone apply the brakes or do as I did and jam a socket extension into the rotor vents and let it jam against the caliper frame to keep the axle from turning while you remove the hub nut. This 1-11/16″  nut is torqued on at 175 lb-ft so it will take a bit to get it off. I had to buy a 3/4″ drive socket set ($42 from Harbor Freight… hey I only need it a few times) in order to remove it.

Remove the caliper and hang it from the frame with some wire or bungee cord. Do NOT let it hang from the brake line. Remove the rotor.

Remove the three 14mm 12pt bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. You will need to turn the knuckle all the way both left and right in order to get all three bolts out. These are torqued at 125 lb-ft so they will be a bit difficult as well to break loose. (BTW, like my custom tie rod?)

Now you will need to work the outer hub bearing race out of the knuckle. I had to tab on the hub mounting flange with a hammer back and forth to get the outer race to break loose from the rust and start turning. Tap parallel to the knuckle face near the hub bolt holes. You may also need to pry a bit with a crowbar. Another method is to get some spare bolts that fit the hub and thread those into the hub (replace the knuckle bolts) and use a hammer to tap on them from behind to force the hub out of the knuckle. Remove the bolts and pull the hub/bearing out. Take note of how the two sheet-metal pieces go on. In order to prevent damage to the axle shaft seals, remove the hub and leave the axle shaft in place (push the stub shaft back through the hub). Then remove the axle shaft. Be sure to keep the shaft centered in the axle tube to avoid damaging the seal. During the hub removal, be sure to check for ABS connections if you have any.

Here is the driver side hub-axle assembly.

Here is a comparison of both side assemblies. Note the larger splined end of the passenger outer shaft.

This the is the stub shaft and outer axle shaft for my non-ABS truck. An ABS equipped truck will have a tone ring fitted to the stub shaft between the flange and the u-joint.

Here is a comparison of both side assemblies. Note the larger splined end of the passenger outer shaft (CAD end). You can also see the necked down area of the inner shafts that is the weak point of the factory setup.

In order to replace the axle u-joints, you need to remove the c-clips from the underside of the caps using a screwdriver. They should come off easily.

Using a u-joint press (or sockets and a hammer or vise) remove the caps from the u-joint and remove the cross.

I replaced the stock/standard Spicer 5-297x u-joints with the new Spicer 5-760x joints. They are supposedly 20% stronger than the old style. The main body is thicker with even thicker sections near the cross shafts. Also the cross shafts have more metal inthem (notice the smaller hole)

Here is the new hub I picked up from Napa. It has Timken bearings and is made by Chicago Rawhide. It comes with new wheel studs already pressed in. You can see the splined area where the stub shaft fits and turns the wheels.

This is the back side of the new hub. Notice the bearings and hub flange setup. When I reassembled the hub, I tried to force as much bearing grease into the back o fthe bearing as possible since I drive through mud and water a lot and I am hoping to minimize thespace it can get into. The new units I bought came prelubed.

Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I recommend that you try to clean out any dirt/mud built up in the axle tube as to minimze the oil contamination and damage to seals. I used a carpenters framing square since it is fairly rigid and fits the tube and let me scrape out 90% of the gunk. Also, when reinstalling the axle shaft, try to keep the splined end from touching the remaining dirt in the tube and go slowly. You do not want to damage the seals by nicking them. When reinstalling the hubs, put some anti-seize on the outer bearing race that fits into knuckle. This will make it easier to reassemble as well as disassemble if needed later. Once the hub is back in place and bolted up, be sure to get the bake cooling plate and space back on in the correct way. The spacer should go on first, then the big airflow plate. The plate should be open in the rear and the “bent” portion should be forward and to the inside of the truck (so the air is pushed in from the front and directed towards the caliper/rotor). Torque the hub-to-knuckle bolts to 125 lb-ft. Install the hub nut. Assemble the rotor and caliper. In order to tighten the hub nut, have someone apply the brakes or use a socket extension to jam into the rotor vents. Torque to 175 lb-ft. and secure with a new cotter pin. Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle. Test drive and check for axle seal leaks and recheck bolts/nuts.

How To Remove/Replace A Rear Wheel Hub Bearing On A Ford Explorer Or Mercury Mounatineer

This information is from the Ford Service Manual and is specifically for a 2002 Ford Explorer, however it can be used for all 2002-2010 Ford Explorer’s, Mercury Mountaineer’s and Mercury Mariner vehicles.

Exploded view of Ford Explorer, mountaineer rear suspension hub bearing control arm

The hub bearing on the rear of these vehicles is unfortunately not a bolt on hub assembly. This is a job that a do-it-yourself-er can do, however this repair requires the actual bearing and outer hub to be pressed in/out. This best way to go about this repair is to have a machine shop do the actual press work. You can do all of the other labor yourself and save several hundred dollars over what a shop would charge. A quick preface to these instructions is that you can remove the brakes and the entire hub and knuckle assembly yourself and then take the hub and knuckle assembly to a suitable machine shop with a new bearing kit in hand and have them do the pressing. Many machine shops have most likely performed this job several times in the past as these bearings are extremely common to fail. You should probably pop open the phone book and call for a quote from several machine shops to make sure they can do it and also they will probably want you to drop it off with them and then pick it up later when they are done. You can also call our tech support phone number at 1-866-770-2771.

We sell these hub repair kits on our website at wholesale, here is a link to the wheel hub bearing kit on our website:

2002-2010 Ford Explorer Rear Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Kit


1. Remove the wheel knuckle.

Wheel Knuckle

CAUTION: Do not loosen the axle wheel hub retainer until the wheel and tire are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from turning.

2. Remove the nut and washer and discard the nut. A new nut is recommended and can be purchased at a Ford dealer or we can supply one with the bearing. Call us at 1-866-770-2771 if you would like the nut with your order.

3. Remove the brake caliper by removing the bolts from the back side of the caliper bracket. Hold the caliper out of the way but do not allow it to hang by the brake hose. Hanging the caliper from the brake hose can cause internal damage to the brake hose. The brake caliper will slide off of the hub once the caliper is removed.

CAUTION: Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from the knuckle.

4. Remove the nut and bolt and separate the toe link from the wheel knuckle and discard the nut.

CAUTION: Do not damage the boot while separating the ball joint from the knuckle.

5. Remove the nut and bolt and separate the upper ball joint from the wheel knuckle and discard the nut.

CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.

6. Make sure the axle is free from the hub. The axle basically floats inside the hub and you can usually push slightly on the end of the axle to make sure it is disengaged from the hub.

7. Remove the nut and bolt and the wheel knuckle, hub and bearing as an assembly..

Rear Wheel Bearing***

NOTE*** This is where you can take the entire assembly and a new hub repair kit to a machine shop and let them do the actual press work. Doing this yourself is not recommended unless you have access to a heavy duty press with all of the proper adapters. Improper equipment or experience can cause damage to the new bearing, knuckle assembly, and could also cause bodily harm.

2. Remove the three bolts.

CAUTION: Make sure that the press adapter outside diameter is slightly smaller than the hub outside diameter or damage to the knuckle will result.

3. Using a suitable press, remove the hub from the bearing and discard the hub.

NOTE: The retainer ring is tapered and must be installed flat side down.

4. Remove and Discard the retainer ring.

5. Using a suitable press, remove the bearing from the wheel knuckle and discard the bearing.

CAUTION: The hub and bearing cannot be reused after dis-assembly.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

GMC/Chevy 2500 & 3500 Pickups (Includes HD Models) Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions

Here is another set of instructions we found online. We copied and pasted them here for you and we added a few little tidbits. Thanks for visiting our site and we hope these will help you. You can also call our ASE certified staff with any questions at 1-866-770-2771. We provide these instructions free of charge and these are meant as a guide only.

How To: Replace Front Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly on 2500HD/3500SRW (dually similar):

Preface: The front wheel hub bearing assemblies on the Chevy and GMC 2500 and 3500 series trucks are very expensive to replace. The good news is that you can follow these instructions and do this job yourself and save several hundred dollars. This job can cost $500-$1000 at a repair shop and if you have done a brake job before, then you should be capable of handling this job.


You can tell if the wheel bearing is failed or failing by a couple of different methods. The most common early symptom is noise. The noise will usually start as a slight growling or roaring sound. This noise typically can be heard from 30-50 MPH and the frequency will match the speed of the vehicle. Sometimes the noise will come and go and the longer you wait to deal with it, usually the louder it will get until it finally fails completely. You really should get into this job well before the bearing fails completely because further damage and expense can occur. Basically if you start hearing a noise, then check it out fast. Some diesel trucks are loud and make it difficult to hear the noise from the bearing so this next inspection is good to do at-least once a year or have a shop do it every oil change.  by jacking the truck up til the wheel is off the ground, grabbing the top and bottom of the tire and try to wobble it in and out. Their should be zero movement. If the wheel wobbles and it pivots from the center of the wheel, then the bearing is the most likely culprit. If their is play and the pivot point is toward the front or back of the wheel or from the top or bottom, then a through front end check should be performed. ANY movement is wear and tear and requires a thorough inspection. Ours were worn to the point of more than 2″ slop at the tire with 50,000mi on the truck. With that said, we must admit that we do have oversize tires and rims and we do a little mudding now and then.

AutoPartsDirectToYou.com $189.99 BEST PRICE
Auto Zone $364.69
Advance Auto Parts $294.99
Napa Auto Parts $319.99
GM Dealer $390.00
The best price by far is AutoPartsDirectToYou.com. These guys wholesale auto parts and sell directly to the public. You can save big bucks by purchasing from them and using these instructions. Also AutoPartsDirectToYou.info is their instructional website that has many useful instructional videos for all kinds of parts. They are ASE certified technicians and have extensive knowledge that you usually cannot find at a regular parts store.

The Hub Bearing Assembly comes with an ABS wheel speed sensor with cable and also has the studs pre-installed. GM has recently updated the part number to #15225770 or AC Delco #FW289. Retail for the unit can be as high as $450 ea, to a low of $190 ea, so it pays to shop around.

Let’s Begin/

What you will need:

You will need:

Floor jack

Jack stand

15mm socket and ratchet, wrench will work if you are strong.

21mm socket and BIG ASS breaker bar. Cutting torch will have better luck than a wrench on this *****.

36mm socket and breaker bar. Nut is actually 35.5mm, so a 1 3/8″ socket can be beaten on it.

Sharp flat blade screwdriver.



Large C-Clamp.


In picture, not absolutely necessary – impact wrench.

Not in picture, something a foot tall and will support 20lb, like a toolbox.

And last but certainly not least: about 3 beers per side, although after 5-6, some bloody knuckles are very possible

Step 1:

Jack side of truck up, and put a jack-stand under it. Use frame rail.

Remove Wheel.

Step 2:

Unplug the wheel sensor wire near the top of the shock. Look closely at the sensor connector and you can see how it simply unclips and slides apart. The new Hub will come with a new connector on the bearing side of the wire, just in case the plastic tabs break.

Step 3:

Use C-Clamp to compress the brake pistons so it will be easy to reinstall. If you are replacing the brake pads and rotors at this time (perfect time to do it), then fully compressing the pistons into the caliper is necessary. Technically the proper way to do this is to drain the brake fluid. If you have never flushed or bled the brakes, then this is a great time to learn. The safest way to do this is attach a hose to the bleeder screw and put the other end into a suitable container. Then, open the bleeder screw, slowly compress the brake caliper, and brake fluid will fill the container. We do not recommend pumping the brake pedal to bleed the brakes unless you are well versed in hydraulic and ABS brake systems. If you simply take the cap off of the brake master cylinder (under the hood), then you allow the brake fluid to gravity bleed out into the container. You can add fresh clean brake fluid to the master cylinder and watch the fluid coming out until it is also clean. Then snug down the bleeder screw and disconnect the hose. You can do this to the remaining wheels and then you have flushed your entire brake system, This is something that should be done every 2-3 years.

Step 4:

There are 2 21mm bolts that hold the brake caliper frame to the axle support. THESE ARE TIGHT!!! Rotate the steering to get to them easier. Remove the bottom, then loosen the top one so you can remove it with your fingers. You will need to have something ready to support it when you remove the brake assy. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose or you will most likely have to replace the hose.

Step 5:

Pull the top bolt and set the brake assy on something that will not stress the brake line. You can destroy a brake line by hanging that much weight on it.

Step 6:

In this picture, the lug at 11 o’clock and 5 o’clock have a retaining washer that holds the disc on the hub for assembly purposes. Remove these by rotating them with a screwdriver, then pry them off. You do not need to re-install these, I suggest you throw them away. Once they are removed, you can pull the disc off the hub. If it does NOT come off easy? You may need a flat heavy hammer to tap it off. Any damage to the rotor or if you noticed any blue coloring (overheated) in the rotor, pad & rotor replacement is recommended.

Step 7:

Pry the center dust cover off with a sharp flat blade screwdriver. Be fairly gentle as you will reuse this. This keeps the nut and threads inside cleaner and less rusty then exposed areas.

Step 8:

That nut in the center keeps the axle from wandering too deep into the differential. Other than that, it does nothing. It is not a load component. It measures 35.5mm, you can remove it with a 36mm socket and breaker bar or tap a 1 3/8″ socket onto it. If the truck is in 4WD with the truck in park, it will not spin the hub. The nut is a locking nut, so it will be tight most the way off. A Pneumatic impact gun can be used to quickly remove the nut, however do not re-install the nut with the impact gun.

Step 9:

Once the nut is off, spray some WD40 into the center spline, then tap the axle into the hub gently until it stops. It will move about 1″. This will make it easy to pull the hub off when it’s time.

Step 10:

There are four 15mm bolts that hold the hub on. These are also pretty tight. If you turn the steering wheel, it makes them easier to remove.

Step 11:

The hub should slip right out. You might have to tap the axle a bit more while holding the hub out from the base. Clean all mating surfaces, grease the o-ring in base. Dust shield faces forward.



Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts – 180 N·m / 133 lb ft

Axle Shaft Nut – 210 N·m / 155 lb ft

Caliper Mounting Bracket to Knuckle, Front – 300 N·m / 221 lb ft

Here’s the new hub/bearing assy. There is some electrical tape on the wire holding them together, tear it off.

Line up the spline to the holes with the wire at TDC. If the bolt holes do not line up, you can either take the truck out of 4WD, or pull it off the spline and try to align it better. I suggest align it better. There is a lot of slop in the axle rotation, so you don’t have to precisely get the right tooth on the spline for it line up. Screw the axle nut on by hand to hold it in place.

Use a few drops of Blue Loctite (yes I know it comes in a red bottle) on the 15mm bolts, and bolt the hub back down. Don’t forget the dust shield. The wire goes UNDER the tab on the dust shield.

Tighten down the axle nut and washer on the axle. Tap the dust cover back on with the handle of the hammer.

Replace the rotor.

Hold the brake pads apart with your fingers and slide the brake assy onto the rotor. Use loctite and reinstall the two 21mm bolts. Do I know the torques? Uh… REAL tight? (see torque specs above)

Snap the 4 wire holders into the same holes the old one came out of, and reconnect the connector near the shock.

Put wheel back on, lower truck..

IMPORTANT, pump the brakes to re-position the calipers!!!

Start engine and pump the brakes slowly several times. When you pushed the pistons back into the calipers, they are still sitting far away from the rotors and YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKES.

Road test, and finish the last beer.

Ford F-250,F-350,Excursion Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions & Information

Ford F250,F350, & Excursion Super Duty Wheel Hub Bearing Problems

Also can be used for 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Ford F250 & F350 Super Duty 4X4 Trucks.

Please call our ASE certified techs on duty at 1-866-770-2771 with any questions and please visit our website

AutoPartsDirectToYou.com on eBay

Ford F250,F350, and Excursion trucks have a complete wheel and hub bearing assembly on each end of the front differential. These basically contain the wheel hub and bearing, the inner flange that bolts directly to the steering knuckle, the outer spindle that is splined for the outer hub locks, and the wheel studs. These bearing assemblies are prone to major wear and tear and usually have a life expectancy of 80,000-100,000 miles. The super duty trucks are usually used in rough work or jobsite use and are therefore prone to wheel bearing failure. When you are faced with replacement of these, the cost estimate to replace them can get very high. Usually both hubs are recommended to be replaced at the same time and also the brakes themselves are usually worn or are recommended to be replaced since they are being removed to replace the hubs. This is a very useful guide on everything you need to know to do this job yourself and save a ton of money. We know from personal experience that this job can be done in the driveway with standard tools.

Step 1. Diagnose the problem

A.     The first step is to make sure that it is indeed the bearing that is the problem. The most common symptom is noise. A failing bearing will usually start with low roaring, groaning, or growling sound. This sound is especially louder and more noticeable the faster you go. The diesel trucks are obviously a little more difficult to hear the noise due to the engine noise. The noise will usually start at 35-45 MPH and get more noticeable as you go. While going straight and at whatever speed makes the noise the most noticeable, slightly jerk the wheel left or right. The noise should go away and then immediatly come back as you straighten out. If this happens you can be almost certain that the bearing is failing. This is because by slightly jerking the wheel, you unload the bearing and then when you straighten up the load is re-applied to teh bearing.

B.     Another way to determine if the bearing is failed or failing is to jack up the vehicle and check the wheels for play. Due to the design of these hubs, they do often fail and create noise but do not have play, however when they do, you better replace it very soon. You should be very careful when checking because the tie rods and ball joints are also common to fail and they also can have play. Check for play from the center of the wheel. You do this by grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and shaking the wheel. Look closely for the pivot point of the play. This means the point of pivot will determine the part that is failed. If the pivot point is the center of the wheel, that is the bearing. If the pivot point is at the front or back of the wheel, this is a failed tie rod end. If the play is at the top or bottom of the whee, then this is a failed ball joint. Basically you should have absolutly zero play in the wheels and If you have play, then their is certainly a front end problem.

C.      The last method is if your ABS light is on. Many of the 1999 and later model F-Series trucks, have 4-Wheel ABS. This is an excellent safety feature and is really a plus to have. The 4 wheel ABS vehicles have a wheel speed sensor installed and built directly into the hub. The 4-wheel ABS system will have an ABS wheel speed sensor mounted at every wheel or atleast each front wheel and one in the rear differential. This system work by measuring the speed of each wheel and if it finds one that is not moving (locked up), then it releases the brake fluid to that wheel and allows it to spin again. This allows the driver to regain control of the vehicle instead of sliding off the road or into something else. Anyway if your ABS light is on, your diagnosis can be much easier. You will need access to a code reader or better yet a full blown scanner. Most Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts stores will plug in the scanner and read your codes for free. You want to find out the code that is set in the computer. The code will also tell you what system or in this case if you have a problem with an ABS sensor. Once you find out if you have a bad ABS sensor and hopefully you found out which wheel it is, you can look closer at that wheel. 9 times out of 10 a failed ABS sensor is a sign the bearing is failing and if it is failed this requires hub replacement anyway.

D.       When all else fails, a professional ASE certified technician is always your best option to verify the problem. These guys work on and see these types of problems on a daily basis and they can tell you with more certainty of the problem. These are expensive parts and when you replace one for no reason and still have a problem, no-one is happy, especially you. It is well worth a $20.00 safety inspection to have them go through all of this and tell you for sure exactly what the problem is.

Installation Instructions


1. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove the brake caliper by removing the caliper anchor plate. Do not hang caliper by the flexible brake hose as this may damage the brake hose. If the caliper is stuck, you can open the master cylinder and the take a wide flathead screwdriver and slightly pry the caliper open. You can do this by wedging the flathead between the brake pads and the rotor. Only a slight movement is neccessary. Remove the brake rotor by sliding it off. Remove the hub snap ring with snap ring plyers or suitable tool. Pull and remove hub lock. Remove snap ring and thrust washer from axle shaft and set aside in the way they came off. Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensor connector, harness and harness routing clips if equipped. (NOTE-rear wheel ABS only vehicles will not have this wire.(hub par #: F81Z1104EE is non-ABS)

2. Remove 4 lock nuts from behind hub. These buts and bolts can sometimes be heavily rusted and corroded. We at AutoPartsDirectToYou do have the factory Ford nuts and bolts available if needed. These are very cheap and usually well worth purchasing beforehand if you are not sure their condition. Otherwise getting stuck without these with the vehicle all apart is a headache. Please call us at 1-866-770-2771 or email us through eBay and we can get you a set. Also when going through our checkout procedure you may be prompted to add those to the shopping cart. After removing the 4 lock nuts, the hub can be removed. The hub and bearings assembly is a slip fit design and should not require a puller.

NOTE: For factory instructions with pictures please email Click the contact seller link to send us an email or call us at 1-866-770-2771!!


1. Install New Hub & Bearing O-ring (may not be included all all hub bearings). Apply a coat of high temperature wheel bearing grease to O-ring area of hub  bearing assembly. Install hub and nuts, replace nuts and studs if damaged. IMPORTANT- Install non-metallic thrust washer between 2 metal thrust washers. Install all 3 washers. (Failure to install these washers properly can cause damage to your new hub bearing assembly).

2. Reverse removal procedure of remaining parts. If your vehicle is equipped with vacuum hub locks, a wheel end vacuum leak test should be done. If you would like instructions on performing that test click here*****. Tighten all remaining bolts and nuts to factory torque specs below.

3. VERY IMPORTANT – Before driving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times to get the pedal high and hard again. If any hydraulic lines were opened a brake bleeding should be done. Usually opening the bleeder and allowing the brakes to gravity bleed is the best method for this. Any questions please call our ASE certified technicians at 1-866-770-2771.

We supply this as informational purposes only and you must decide if
you are capable or mechanically inclined enough to do this repair.

Thanks for reading our guide and here are some links to more of our stuff:

Buick Park Avenue, Lesabre Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

Here is a great set of instructions for the installation of a GM front wheel hub bearing assembly. One of our customers submitted this for us to show to the public. Hopefully anyone thinking about tackling this job will find these helpful. (continue reading…)

Ford F250,F350 1998 or 99 early Hub Bearing Conversion

Late 1998 or Pre-3/22/1999 Front Wheel Hub Bearings Assemblies on Ford F250 & F350 Superduty Trucks have been only available at the Ford Dealer until Now!!!

Luckily one of our savy shop customers went through the work to figure out the difference between the early and later model hubs on the F250 & F350 Super duty pickups. What they found can help save many people lots of money and time. This is a very simple conversion and costs half of what the dealer charges for these hubs alone. Their is a kit that can be purchased that would include 2 new front hub and bearings assemblies and 2 new brake rotor assemblies. This kit costs a fraction off what the dealer sells it for and it is the same quality parts. Their are 2 different kits available, one for 4-Wheel ABS and one for Rear-Wheel ABS only. If you have any questions please call us toll free at 1-866-770-2771. We at AutoPartsDirectToYou would be glad to help and we can also provide detailed instructions for installation. Please check out this guide for more info. Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement Ford F-250 Super Duty,F-350 & Excursion (continue reading…)

Chevy Blazer 2WD Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

Here is a great set of instructions submitted to us from one of our customers. These are very detailed and give you great insight into tackiling this very easy job. You may also call our team of ASE certified technicians with questions at 1-866-770-2771. (continue reading…)

Chevy Blazer 2WD Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

Here is a great set of instructions submitted to us from one of our customers. These are very detailed and give you great insight into tackiling this very easy job. You may also call our team of ASE certified technicians with questions at 1-866-770-2771. (continue reading…)

Mazda Miata Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

We found these instructions online and posted them here hoping they will help. We are not the author of these instructions and we do not claim that these will be exact to your vehicle, however they should give you a very good idea if you think you want to tackle this job yourself or not. (continue reading…)

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