Ford

Ford 7.3L Diesel with NO Hydraulic Clutch Pressure? After Bleeding the hydraulic system you still having NO pressure?

On 1993-1995 Ford F-Series Trucks with 7.3L Turbo Diesels (8th digit of Vin F), owners may experience the clutch pedal pushing to the floor without disengaging the clutch. This could be caused by a leaking clutch hydraulic system, resulting in a loss of hydraulic pressure to the clutch assembly.

Ford has released a TSB Article No. 95-4-9, in this article Ford recommends updated some parts to solve this problem.
Model(s): Ford Light Truck: 1993-95 F Super Duty, F-250, F-350

E3TZ-7A564-A  Clutch Slave Cylinder
F2TZ-7A543-D  Clutch Master Cylinder
F5TZ-7A512-A  Tube Kit
E7TZ-7A554-A  Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever

In Ford’s TSB, they list a point of interest with installing the master cylinder. Ensure there is no excess cowl seam sealer under the mounting surface of the master cylinder. Excess sealer will cause the master cylinder to be slightly mispositioned.

Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever is located on top of the Pedal Assembly, this part repositions the lever on the master for a better stroke.

Installing a new Pedal Pivot Shaft Lever (E7TZ-7A554-A) as follows:

1) Snap the new pedal pivot shaft lever (pin) on the new clutch master cylinder push rod bushing.

2) Install the new pedal pivot shaft lever on the clutch pedal shaft.

3) Install the attaching nut finger tight.

4) Inspect the pedal position to ensure it is against the “up” stop.

5) Tighten the attaching nut. This will permit the knurled teeth on the shaft to cut matching teeth in the lever, which then results in correct positioning of the two (2) part.

After the new parts have been installed, follow the system bleeding procedures to obtain proper clutch function.

1) Using Disconnect Tool (T88T-70522-A), disconnect coupling at transmission by lightly tugging on clutch tube while sliding White plastic sleeve toward slave cylinder. Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Using hand pressure, apply 10-15 pounds to clutch pedal. If pedal is hard, go to step 3). If pedal is spongy, go to next step.

2) Using a screwdriver, open valve of male coupling. Slowly depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. Remove screwdriver to close valve, and release clutch pedal. Ensuring reservoir is full, repeat step.

3) Close reservoir and reconnect coupling. Rapidly depress clutch pedal 5-10 times, wait 1-3 minutes, then repeat procedure 3 more times. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from entering bellhousing. Loosen bleeder screw and maintain fluid level in reservoir.

4) Fluid and bubbles will flow from hose attached to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw when fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure fluid level is correct and install reservoir cap.

5) Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level.

6) Test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift in Reverse. No grinding should be heard or felt when clutch pedal is within 1/2″ (13 mm) of floor. If noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.


Tuning an Engine by the Spark Plug. The Basics of Reading a Spark Plug.

When tuning a performance engine the spark plug is a important tuning tool.  Being that there are many
different tuning techniques, I will keep this article about the basics of spark plug reading on a
Quarter-Mile Drag Strip (or wide-open-throttle tuning).

When tuning by the spark plug, you must always use a NEW plug to get an accurate reading.  To get a
clean plug reading the engine should be shut down after the run and towed back to the pits. Any running
of the engine after that will skew the plug reading.

When tuning by the spark plug, you must always remember there are two major variables at
play (air fuel ratio and ignition timing). To make it easier to determine your on the right track when
tuning, make small incremental changes and only 1 or 2 changes at a time.   Engine tuning is a learned
skill or art, with many different outcomes of getting a good plug reading. These tips are to identifying
a safe engine tune, horsepower or torque numbers may not be peak.  For example, if I was looking
a spark plug showing to much heat. I could pull some timing out or add more fuel, both changes
would result in less heat. As I have already stated, air fuel ratios and ignition timing play a huge
part in the outcome of a good engine tune.

The following tips are just a base line of what to inspect on the spark plug. When reading a spark
plug there are four different places to look.  The first place I inspect is the plug strap, this is
the ignition timing. The strap will show a color change in two spots on the 90 degree bend.   The first
mark shows the base timing and the second indicates total timing.   IF THE SECOND MARK IS
SHOWING AT THE BASE WHERE THE STRAP IS WELDED ON, THIS IS A SIGN OF TOO MUCH HEAT.
An ideal ‘Safe’ Timing range is when the total timing discoloring is located just passed the bend.

Next I’ll inspect the threaded area for the heat range. The threads will show dull burnt looking
color change, 2-3 threads is ideal. To increase the number of burnt threads, increase the heat range
of the plug. If you have 4-5-6 threads burnt you need to get a colder plug.

 

Inspecting for Air/Fuel can be found in two spots, one spot known as the Fuel Ring. On the Fuel Ring,
your look for a complete ‘Full Turn’ of discoloring. Ideally this should be lightly colored soot. As the
Fuel Ring colored soot darkens, this indicates a richer Air/Fuel ratio. If your tuning the engine for
maximum horsepower, the ring should be very light and not make a full circle around the ring. BUT,
BEWARE THIS IS ON THE EDGE OF BEING TOO LEAN.

The second place to inspect for the air/fuel ratio is the the porcelain.  Excessive fuel leaves light
to dark color rings on the porcelain. Ideal conditions show the porcelain as new to shinny
white. But, beware of a grayish specials as it is most-likely piston material.

NGK V-Power Racing Spart Plug Kits for Racers


APDTY.com has put together Racer Kits of 48 count NGK Spark Plugs

R5671A-7 (Stock #4091)
R5671A-8 (Stock # 4554)
R5671A-9 (Stock # 5238)
R5671A-10 (Stock # 5820)
R5671A-11 (Stock # 6596)

*TIP for selecting a Heat Range using  NGK Spark Plugs,  #11 is the coldest and #7 will be the hottest.

Common Spark Plug Readings and Common Causes

 

 


98 99 00 01 02 03 Ford Ranger Hub Bearing Replacement Instructions

Article from  ’ The Ranger Station Technical Library ‘

 

Story By Valley Customs

now you’ve probably realized that the replacements of the 98-00 Ranger
hubs suck. Not only are the parts expensive, but you need “special
tools” to replace them, hopefully this article will help make that
replacement a little easier.
 

Step 1 – Locating Replacement Parts 

After realizing that the hub bearing units are not serviceable, I began
my search for replacements. After days of searching I came up with these
numbers as of 1/07.

AutoPartsDirectToYou.com $159.99

AutoZone: $377

Advanced Auto: $275

Ford Dealer: $277

I was surprised to see that the Ford dealer’s price was actually lower
than the aftermarket stores. That would have been my top choice if I had
not found AutoPartsDirectToYou.com. Of course I’d look into seeing if
the Ford unit came with all the parts if you are going to pursue that
avenue. I was told by the associates at AutoPartsDirectToYou.com that
this unit comes with a mfg. lifetime warranty.

Here’s the picture of the bearing from AutoPartsDirectToYou.com

 
Step 2 – Removal 
  Remember this is just a rough guide on how I replaced the bearings using
bits and pieces of info from my repair manual, on the Internet, and from
Ford. I’m not sure if this is the correct repair procedure, but it
worked for me.
 

Tools:

For those of us without the special 6 piece Ford hub removal tool you
will need to locate

(6) jig saw blades or similar size steel strips and
a roll of tape.
(You’ll see why in a little bit). You’ll also need
standard hand tools, metric wrenches & sockets, a few hammers,
screwdrivers, snap ring pliers & a large c-clamp.

Directions:

1.) Loosen the front lug nuts and secure the front end of the truck up
on jack stands.

2.) Remove the tires and brush any mud or debris off the hub assembly.

3.) Remove the dust shield

4.) Compress the disk brakes with a c-clamp and remove the caliper.

5.) Remove the rotor

6.) If you have the hub removal tool, remove the hub and move on to step 8?

6a.) If not, take the 6 jig saw blades and gently insert them in the hub
hold down tabs. After you’ve inserted them carefully pry up the tabs by
pushing down on the blades, I found it helpful to tape over each blade a
few times holding it securely in place, as seen in the picture below.

   

7.) Now that you’ve released the hub clips you will need to pull off the
hub. I found the easiest way was to take a medium size standard
screwdriver and twist between the tape on the metal hub and the plastic.
If you’re lucky it will move about 1/16th of an inch or so. If it does,
rotate the hub and continue with this process in the 5 other slots. I
also found it helpful to keep constant pressure on it by pulling away;
this kept the hub from sliding back into the original position. Again,
as you can see in the picture below.


7a.) Once you’ve cleared the clips, you can pull it out the rest of the
way, just make sure you are pulling perpendicular to the hub as it will
reduce binding and make the removal easier.


7b.) If the hub doesn’t move use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove
the outer cap of the PVH system. A 1/8″ turn CCW will disengage the
pins and allow you to pull out the guts of the hub system. Don’t worry
if they all come apart, I’ll show you later how to clean them and put it
all back together. Once the guts have been removed you can spray some
penetrating oil inside to help loosen things up. 
 

Another tip: The day I did this job it was 13 degrees F out and I
found that since everything was frozen, heating up the hub with a
hairdryer helped loosen things up.
 

8.) Remove the dust shield and the three bolts holding the bearing
assembly on. 


Tip: Use that penetrating oil generously, it’ll only help loosen
things up & the longer it sits on the parts the more effective it
will work
 

9.) Now that you’ve got the bolts loosened up, tap the bearing assembly
around with a hammer; hopefully it’ll loosen up. Remember though its
still connected to the drive axel so don’t just pull it out.
 

10.) You might have to clean out all the grease, but there is a plastic
and metal snap ring inside, use the snap ring pliers to remove it. 

Tip: I found that every time I went to pull out the snap ring it
would fall off the pliers, to solve this problem I would open up the
snap ring and rather then pull the snap ring out, I’d push in the drive
axel until it was over the shoulder.


11.) After you’ve removed the snap ring and the hub is loose, you should
remove the ABS wire (if your truck has front ABS). Then just pull the
hub/bearing assembly out.


PVH Assembly
 

I decided that now would be a good time to clean out the PVH. You’ll
notice that the system contains just 6 major parts: the hub body, 2
white pieces, a spring, the rubber diaphragm and the cap. 
 

How it works. 

To engage the hubs, the system puts a vacuum on the rubber diaphragm
which compresses the white assembly about ¾ of an inch. This releases
the spring and puts pressure on the ring gear which connects the hub to
the drive axel. It takes an average of 45 seconds to pull enough of a
vacuum to engage.

To disengage the hubs, the system puts less of a vacuum on the diaphragm
only pulling it down about ¼ of an inch; this aligns 2 small tabs
inside the white assembly and keeps the spring compressed. As a result
of the spring being compressed the ring gear disengages from the hub and
drive axel, unlocking the hubs.

The whole system works kind of like a click pen.

If the guts spilled all over the place when you removed the cap, here is
a picture showing the order they go back together.

Step 3 – New Hubs  

The new hub/bearing assemblies did not come with new o-rings and mine
were in pretty good shape so I decided to reuse them. Note: I’d suggest
using new ones to keep the shaky vacuum system in good working order.
You can see in the pictures what o rings I’m talking about.

  


Step 4 – Reinstallation
 

The reinstallation is pretty straight forward; just reverse the removal
process. Remember to put some wheel bearing grease on those o-rings and
all mating surfaces; this will help with the install and removal if you
ever have to take them out again.

 

 


Ford F250 F350 F450 F550 Super Duty Power Stroke 6.0L Turbocharged Diesel lossing coolant or over-heating? What is a EGR Cooler?

The diesel engine uses a compression-ignition system, meaning that it uses the heat of compression to initiate a spark-ignition to burn the air-fuel mixture.  Using this style of internal combustion has it advantages and disadvantages.  The diesel engine has the highest thermal efficiency of any combustion engine using this method of heat along with high compression ratio for better efficiency.  This also is it’s weakness, due to the amount of heat the engine as to deal with.  That is why the diesel engine requires a EGR Cooler, needing to cool the recirculation of the exhaust gasses to maintain a acceptable operating temperature while  complying with federal emissions standards.

How does a EGR Cooler work?  The exhaust gasses are directed through the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Cooler to remove heat before the exhaust gasses arrive at the EGR valve.  This system uses engine coolant to reduce the exhaust gas temperature entering the intake.   Unfortunately this system deals with extremely high temperatures which fatigues the metal components causing cracks.  Which seems to be a common problem on most diesel engines.  For example on the Ford Power Stroke 6.0L Turbocharged Diesel you don’t even know there is a problem, just a slow coolant loss.  At first you may notice just a loss of coolant with no leak.  As this condition gets worse, you’ll see white clouds of smoke from the exhaust pipe.  This is the coolant leaking through the cooler into the intake and vaporizing, exiting out the exhaust pipe.

APDTY now offeres a solution for the EGR cooler problems with a redesigned EGR cooler that has a larger tubing design instead of the original small fin designed (similar to a radiator).  This new cooler is re-manufactured and improved by removing the factory fin design and replaced with bigger thicker stainless steel tubes that allow the exhaust gas to cool without the chance of cracking & mixing with coolant which is the main cause of failure on the factory original units.

2010-05 Ford 6.0L Diesel EGR Cooler Tubular Upgrade

With the 6.0L Power Stroke, another problem leading up to the EGR cooler failure is often the oil cooler.  Coolant first flows through the oil cooler before the EGR Cooler, this oil cooler is know for plugging up and restricting flow to the EGR cooler.  Without the coolant flowing the engine temperatures will become extremely hot, starting a pattern of overheating failures with the EGR cooler and engine oil temperatures.  This could eventually lead to failures of the oil pump, fuel injectors and turbocharger problems. A tale-tail sign of your oil cooler going bad is coolant boiling out of the overflow bottle.  We also carry and recommend the factory original Ford Oil Cooler repair kit, part # 3C3Z6A642CA to be replaced at the same time as the cooler.

FORD OEM Part Number 3C3Z6A642CA

Replacing the EGR Cooler requires that the turbocharger and intake manifold be removed.  To make this replacement easy,  Apdty offers several other parts related to repairing the Ford Super Duty 6.0L Turbo Diesel EGR Problem.

Ford OEM EGR Cooler/Intake Gasket Kit for the 6.0L  Turbo Diesel.

2004-2009 Intake Manifold 5C3Z-9424-A

Dorman Products offers a Turbo hardware kit including the o-rings, gasket and bolts needed for doing this job.  Dorman part number 904-234.

 

 


Ford F150, Mustang, 3-Valve 5.4 / 4.6 VCT Solenoid Failure, Trouble Codes P0022 or P0012, Variable Camshaft Timing. Can cause lost power, check engine light, poor fuel mileage.

- Basic System Overview and Operation

The Ford 4.6 Liter 3-Valve motor is the first modular Ford V8 to incorporate variable camshaft timing (VCT). Variable valve timing adjusts the angle of the camshaft while the engine is running to increase horsepower, and fuel economy. This system is controlled by the engine computer, which operates a solenoid on the top of each cylinder head inside the valve cover. This solenoid allows pressurized oil to flow to the camshaft sprocket, which on this system, Ford calls a “Cam Phaser.” The cam phaser becomes pressurized by engine oil and changes the camshaft timing by varying the offset of the camshaft gear. (See our post http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=70 for more information on the cam phaser).

- VCT Solenoid Failure

VCT Solenoid

You can click here to find the Original Equipment Ford VCT Solenoid

The VCT (Variable Cam Timing) solenoid is one point of potential failure in this system. The solenoid is exposed to harsh conditions inside the valve cover. Excessive heat, and lack of engine oil changes are two of the most damaging factors that can kill the VCT Solenoid. When the engine computer recognizes that the VCT solenoid is not operating properly, it can trigger any of the trouble codes listed below. Failure of a VCT solenoid can also cause poor engine performance, rough running, and decreased fuel economy.

- Trouble Codes indicating possible VCT Solenoid Failure

** Please note, these codes can all be indications of other problems in the VCT system, such as the camshaft phaser or wiring.

P0010 : Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open, Bank 1 (Passenger Side)
P0011 : Intake Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced, Bank 1 (Passenger Side)
P0012 : Intake Camshaft Position FTiming – Over-Retarded, Bank 1 (Passenger Side)
P0020 : Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open, Bank 2 (Driver Side)
P0021 : Intake Camshaft Position Timing – Over Advanced, Bank 2 (Driver Side)
P0022 : Intake Camshaft Position Timing – Over-Retarded, Bank 2 (Driver Side)

** Please note, these codes can all be indications of other problems in the VCT system, such as the camshaft phaser or wiring.

 

Drivers Side VCT Solenoid. Passenger side is similar.

VCT Solenoid Location

VCT Solenoid


Dual Temperature Control, Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) or also called Electronic Climate Control not working correctly. Mode selection not working or the lose of the ability to switch airflow, which defaults to the defrost setting.

Today’s Vehicle Electronics are becoming very High-tech with the addition of many new creature comforts. One such feature is Dual Temperature Control, Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) or also called Electronic Climate Control. This feature allows the ability of adjusting different temperatures and fan speeds for the driver and passengers. Another word associated with temperature controls is  HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) which refers to technology of indoor or automotive environmental comfort. Most common failure complaints with ATC systems is the mode selection fails or loses it’s ability to switch airflow which defaults to the defrost setting. This system is very complex, with a specified procedure to determine the particular conditions present. This should be diagnosed by a Certified Automotive Technician and requires the use of a scan tool to check for set DTC’s which may affect HVAC operations when present.

Dorman Products now offers a line of remanufatured Climate Control Modules. Dorman has recognized a few failures and improved these problems of the climate control modules.
With all modules one failure that was redesigned is in the mode selection, which results in the lose of ability to switch airflow and defaults to the defrost setting.
On models 599-030, 599-001 and 599-003 the lamp failures have be addressed.
Model 599-030 a revise to the back-lighting has been done along with a update to the deterioration of o-rings. These Remanufactured climate control modules are fully tested, and are plug and play ready for easy installation with No Programming Required.

TO INSURE CORRECT ORDERING  OF AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL MODULES YOU SHOULD MATCH-UP THE OEM PART NUMBER. TO OBTAIN A FACTORY PART NUMBER, HAVE THE  VIN NUMBER ON HAND AND GIVE YOUR LOCAL DEALERSHIP PARTS DEPARTMENT A CALL FOR THE FACTORY PART NUMBER YOU ARE REPLACING.

General Motors 2005-2007
Manual Dual Temperature Control
Avalanche 1500/2500, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Silverado/Sierra 1500/2500HD/3500

599-001- w/Rear Defrost OEM Direct Cross #’s 10370034, 15832315, 21997353


599-003- w/o Rear Defrost OEM Direct Cross #’s 10370033, 15832313, 21997351

General Motors 2005-2006
Auto Dual Temperature Control
Avalanche, Escalade, Sierra,
Silverado 2007-05, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon


599-013 OEM Direct Cross #’s 10367041, 15133519, 15192450, 15214766, 15832314, 15832316, 15855848, 21997426, 21997427

General Motors 2003-2004
Auto Dual Temperature Control
Avalanche, Escalade, Sierra, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon,

599-009 OEM Direct Cross #’s 10367042, 15105215, 15107730, 15137655, 15185639, 15195564, 15201969, 15222482, 15763065, 15832318, 15855849

Ford 2003-2010
Auto Temperature Control
Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Marauder

599-030 OEM Direct Cross # 3W7Z19980AA


Reprogramming procedure for Mercury, Ford and Lincoln Keyless Entry Transmitters or more commonly know as a Key Fob.

Most modern vehicles come with the option for keyless entry. The problem is that these transmitters drop, break, get lost, rubber buttons wear, contacts inside become corroded and the plastic case can crack. TechSmart™ offers one of the most common keyless entry transmitters providing a high-quality, cost effective solution to replace the damaged or lost original.

Some helpful hints on reprogramming your keyless entry transmitter (key fob)

Electonically unlock all doors prior to attempting to enter Remote entry programming mode. Do not press the brake pedal during manual remote entry programming procedure as it will immediately exit you from that mode  (this is to protect against confusion with TPMS learn mode.) If only one transmitter needs to be added or replaced, this can be accomplished via the diagnostic programming procedure using a service scan tool, instead of erasing all transmitters from memory using the manual key cycle method. Keep in mind, most systems only allow 4 devices to be programmed to the vehicle. For example, if a vehicle capable of accepting 4 transmitter devices and is fitted with a wireless keypad, then it can only accept three other transmitters (key fob) devices.

Typical Transmitter programming using the manual key cycle method.

2011-2006 Ford Crown Victoria
2011-2006 Mercury Grand Marquis

Open drivers window. Turn ignition switch from LOCK to RUN position 4 times within 3 seconds ending in RUN position. Door locks will lock then unlock to verify programming mode has been entered. Press any button on transmitter to be programmed. Within 7.5 seconds, press any button on next transmitter to be programmed and so on untill all transmitters are programmed. To exit programming mode, turn ignition switch to START position or wait for more than 7.5 seconds.

2003-1998 Ford Escort
1999-1998 Mercury Tracer

To reprogram all transmitters, cycle ignition switch from LOCK to RUN postion 8 times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN position or LOCK to START position 4 times in 10 seconds, ending in RUN position. After doors lock and unlock, press any button on all remotes transmitters (up to limit of 4). With each button pressed on remote transmitter, door locks should cycle (lock/unlock) to confirm programming. Once completed, turn ignition switch to LOCK postion. Door lock should cycle (lock/unlock) one last time to comfirm completion of programming. All transmitters must be reprogrammed at the same time.

2011-1999 Ford Mustang
2006-2005 Ford GT
2010-1998 Ford Light Truck Expedition
2010-1998 Lincoln Navigator

Open driver’s window. Cycle ignition key from LOCK to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds ending in RUN postion. Doors will lock, then unlock to verify program mode has been entered. Within 7.5 seconds, press any button on transmitter. Doors will lock, then unlock to confirm transmitter has been programmed. Turn ignition switch to LOCK postion or wait 5 minutes to exit program mode. Doors will lock, then unlock to confirm program mode has been exited.

2007-1998 Ford Taurus
2005-1998 Mercury Sable

1. Ensure anti-theft system is not armed. Turn ignition switch from LOCK to RUN position 8 times within 10 seconds ending in RUN position. The system will indicate entry into programed mode by locking and unlocking all doors.
2. Press any button on remote transmitter within 20 seconds. Doors will lock and unlock to confirm transmitter has been programmed. Repeat procedure to program additional transmitters.
3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position to exit program mode. If a new set of transmitters have been programmed, RAP module will lock and unlock all doors one last time to confirm programming was successful. If system does not program successfully, repeat procedure. If system will not program, repair remote keyless entry system as necessary.

2010-1998 Ford Light Truck Explorer / Sport / Sport Trac
2010-1998 Mercury Mountaineer
2005-2003 Lincoln Aviator

Open driver’s window. Cycle ignition key from LOCK to RUN 5 times within 10 seconds ending in RUN position. Doors will lock, then unlock to verify program mode has been entered. Press any button on transmitter. Doors will lock, then unlock to confirm transmitter has been programmed. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position or wait 20 seconds to exit program mode. Doors will lock, then unlock to confirm program mode has been exited.

2011-2004 Lincoln Town Car
1. Cycle ignition switch from LOCK to RUN positions 4 times within 3 seconds. Locks will lock and unlock to confirm programming mode has been entered. Press any button on remote transmitter.
2. If additional remote transmitters are to be programmed, press any button on remaining remote transmitters within 7.5 seconds. To exit programming mode, turn ignition switch to START position or wait 7.5 seconds.
3. To set a remote transmitter to also operate a memory set postion, press SET button on memory switch then press any button on remote transmitter then appropriate memory button (1 or 2). To unassociate a transmitter, repeat this step.

1998-2003 Lincoln Town Car
Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 3 seconds, with the 4th time ending in RUN. All doors will lock then unlock to confirm programming mode. Within 20 seconds, press any button on the 1st remote transmitter. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. Within 20 seconds, press any button on the 2nd transmitter (up to 4 transmitters total possible). Turn the ignition OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

2002-1999 Mercury Cougar
1. Open driver’s window. Turn ignition switch to RUN or ACC position. Access programming connector. Programming connector is behind left trunk trim panel, attached to relay panel. Using jumper wire, momentarily short the 2 terminals of programming connector together. Both doors should lock then unlock to confirm program mode has been entered.
2. Press any button on keyless entry remote transmitter. Both doors should lock thae unlock to confirm that transmitter has been programmed.
3. Repeat step 2, to program all other transmitters (maximun of 4 transmitters) to be used with this system before exiting programming, turn iginition switch to LOCK position. To confirm programming mode has been exited, both doors should lock then unlock.

2007-2005 Ford Five Hundred
2007-2005 Mercury Montego
2005-2002 Ford Thunderbird
2006-2000 Lincoln LS

Do not press the brake pedal during manual remote entry programming procedure as it will immediately exit you from that mode. Electronically unlock the vehicle prior to attempting to enter Remote Entry Programming Mode. Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. All doors will lock then unlock to confirm programming mode. Within 20 seconds, press any button on 1st remote reansmitter. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. Within 20 seconds, press any button on the 2nd transmitter (up to 4 transmitters total possible). Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

2011-2000 Ford Focus
Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 6 seconds. Turn the ignition OFF. The system will chime to comfirm programming mode has been entered. Within 20 seconds, press any button on 1st transmitter. The system chime once to confirm programming. Within 20 seconds, press any button on 2nd transmitter (up to 4 transmitters total possible). Turn the ignition to RUN to exit programming mode.


2003-2005 Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis, Headlights dropping out while driving due to the Lighting Control Module (LCM)

TechSmart Lighting Control Module  (LCM)


The LCM is Fords answer to problems with electronic interference and excessive heat with thermoelectric devices used previously.
The LCM is a microprocessor based module that controls several exterior lighting systems.
System include headlamps with auto-lamps (if equipped), turn-signals/hazards, corning lamps, parking lamps and battery saver.

Most common problem with the Lighting control module is that the headlights stop working for short periods of time while driving. Due to the relay in the control module over-heating. Ford recommends only using headlight bulbs that meet there specifications, as this may cause or contribute to this condition.

Ford headlamp bulb specifications – Bulb part # 9007
-low beam light should be rated at 4.30 amps @ 55 watts,
-high beam should be rated at 5.08 amps @ 65 watts.

Before replacing the LCM, make sure all fuses and relays for the exterior lights are good. Refer to you owners manual for fuse/relay locations.
Where is the LCM located? The Lighting Control Module (LCM) would be located, behind center lower of dashboard.

2003-2004 Ford Crown Victoria, 2003-2004 Mercury Grand Marquis part # S41006

2005 Ford Crown Victoria, 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis part # S41007

 

 


Slow coolant leak on your 2.0L Escape, Focus or Tribute? Could be your Thermostat Housing.

Slow coolant leak on your 2.0L Escape, Focus or Tribute? Most-likely your leak is coming from the thermostat housing, leaving a small puddle of radiator fluid under the engine on the drivers side. This thermostat housing is made of plastic and very common to crack, resulting in a coolant leak. Another common problem is due to a oil leak from the valve cover gasket. This oil leak makes it way down to the thermostat housing destroying the o-ring.

Dorman Thermostat Housing 902-201

When replacing the t-stat housing it would be best to switch from the original hose clamps to worm type hose clamps. The hardest part of this job being the removal of the factory type hose clamp, due to the limited space to work in. Switching to the worm type hose clamps will make the installation a breeze. This job can be done with basic tools,  in about 45 minutes.

 

 


What is a Electronic Throttle Body or commonly referred to as Throttle-By-Wire, Fly-By-Wire, Drive-By-Wire (DBW) or Throttle Actuator Control (TAC)?

Electronic Throttle Bodies? Where’s the throttle cable? As you may already know opening the hood in a modern car reveals systems alot different than that of years past. As engine life has been extended and engine controls have become more complex, longer-life and higher-reliability electronic components are required. These advances in electronic componets aid the Power Control Module (PCM) to stay within the programed perimeters for the best performance and emission regulations.  One of these components being the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system often referred to as throttle-by-wire, fly-by-wire, drive-by-wire (DBW) or throttle actuator control (TAC). Using a array of sensors the on-board computer system measures throttle demand, then sends out a signal (electronic command) to the electronic throttle body. This computer command is to operate a servo motor controlling the throttle plate/blade or butterfly.

What seems to be the failure of the Electronic Throttle Body is the plastic gear drive. A common problem of the throttle body bore has been a build up of gases from the EGR and PVC systems, combined with heat causes a formation of gummy residue. This gummy residue often restricts airflow causing poor or hunting idle and even stalling conditions. This residue can become so built up that it causes the throttle body plate/blade to stick, striping out the gear drive in the throttle body.

TechSmart™ has a complete line of New Electronic Throttle Bodies, offering a cost effective solution for repairing  failed electronic throttle bodies for many makes and models.

S20001
2010-2009 Ford Light Truck Expedition
2010-2009 Ford Light Truck F Series Fullsize Pickup
2010-2009 Lincoln Navigator

S20002
2007-2006 Cadillac CTS
2008-2006 Chevrolet Corvette
2009-2008 Pontiac G8
2006-2005 Pontiac GTO

S20003
2007-2006 Buick Rendezvous
2006-2005 Buick Terraza
2006-2005 Chevrolet Malibu / Malibu Maxx
2006-2005 Chevrolet Light Truck Equinox
2006-2005 Chevrolet Light Truck Uplander
2006-2005 Pontiac G6
2006-2005 Pontiac Montana
2006-2005 Saturn Relay

S20004
2008-2006 Buick LaCrosse
2006 Buick Rendezvous
2007-2006 Cadillac CTS
2006 Cadillac SRX
2007-2006 Cadillac STS

S20005
2006-2004 Cadillac SRX
2009-2006 Cadillac XLR
2006-2005 Pontiac Torrent

S20006
2004 Buick Rainier,
2006-2003 Cadillac Escalade,
2006-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2007-2004 Chevrolet Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Express
2006-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck Suburban / Fullsize Blazer / Tahoe
2004-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck Trailblazer
2004-2003 GMC Light Truck Envoy,
2006-2003 GMC Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2007-2004 GMC Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Savana
2006-2003 GMC Light Truck Suburban / Fullsize Jimmy / Yukon
2007-2005 Hummer H2

S20007
2004-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
2007 Chevrolet Light Truck Colorado
2007 GMC Light Truck Canyon
2007 Hummer H3
2007-2003 Buick Rainier
2007-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck Trailblazer
2007-2003 GMC Light Truck Envoy
07-05 Pontiac Grand Prix
2007-2005 Saab 9-7
2007-2006 Chevrolet Impala

S20009
2007 Saturn Aura
2009 Saturn Vue
2009,2010 Buick Lucerne
2009,2010 Chevrolet Impala
2009-2006 Chevrolet Light Truck Uplander
2009-2006 Pontiac Montana
2009-2006,2010 Chevrolet Malibu / Malibu Maxx
2009-2006,2010 Pontiac G6
2009-2007 Chevrolet Light Truck Equinox
2009-2007 Pontiac Torrent

S20010
2001-1999 Cadillac Catera
2004-2003 Cadillac CTS

S20011
2002 Chevrolet Light Truck Trailblazer
2002 GMC Light Truck Envoy
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

S20012
2008-2005 Pontiac Grand Prix
2008-2006 Buick Lucerne
2009-2005 Buick LaCrosse

S20013
2007 Chevrolet Light Truck Colorado
2007 GMC Light Truck Canyon
2007-2004 Saturn Ion
2007-2005 Chevrolet Cobalt

S20014
2006-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck Suburban / Fullsize Blazer / Tahoe
2006-2003 GMC Light Truck Suburban / Fullsize Jimmy / Yukon
2007-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2007-2003 GMC Light Truck Fullsize Pickup

S20015
2009-2008,2010 Chevrolet Light Truck HHR
2009-2008,2010 Chevrolet Malibu / Malibu Maxx
2010 Chevrolet Light Truck Equinox
2010 GMC Light Truck Terrain

S20016
2008-2007 Chevrolet Malibu / Malibu Maxx
2009-2007 Pontiac G5
2009-2007,2010 Chevrolet Cobalt
2009-2007,2010 Chevrolet Light Truck HHR

S20017
2009-2007 Saturn Outlook
2009-2007 Saturn Vue
2009-2007 Suzuki XL-7
2009-2007,2010 GMC Light Truck Acadia
2009-2008 Chevrolet Light Truck Equinox
2009-2008 Pontiac Torrent
2009-2008,2010 Buick Enclave
2010 Buick LaCrosse

S20018
2009-2007,2010 Cadillac SRX
2009-2008,2010 Cadillac CTS
2009-2008,2010 Cadillac STS
2010 Buick LaCrosse
2010 Chevrolet Camaro
2010 Chevrolet Light Truck Equinox
2010 GMC Light Truck Terrain

S20019
2009 Chevrolet Light Truck Avalanche
2009 Chevrolet Light Truck Suburban / Fullsize Blazer / Tahoe
2009 GMC Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Savana
2009 GMC Light Truck Suburban / Fullsize Jimmy / Yukon
2009 Hummer H2
2009-2010 Cadillac Escalade
2009-2010 Chevrolet Corvette
2009-2010 Chevrolet Light Truck Colorado
2009-2010 Chevrolet Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2009-2010 Chevrolet Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Express
2009-2010 GMC Light Truck Canyon
2009-2010 GMC Light Truck Fullsize Pickup

S20020
2009-2010 Ford Crown Victoria
2009-2010 Ford Light Truck E Series Fullsize Van
2009-2010 Ford Mustang
2009-2010 Lincoln Town Car
2009-2010 Mercury Grand Marquis

S20021
2009-2010 Ford Light Truck E Series Fullsize Van
2009-2008 Ford Mustang

S20022
2008-2006 Ford Light Truck Explorer / Sport / Sport Trac
2008-2006 Mercury Mountaineer

S20023
2005-2004 Ford Light Truck Explorer / Sport / Sport Trac
2005-2004 Mercury Mountaineer

S20024
2006-2003 Chevrolet Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Express
2006-2003 GMC Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Savana

S20025
2007-2005 Ford Five Hundred,
2007-2005 Ford Light Truck Freestyle
2007-2005 Mercury Montego

S20026
2009-2006 Ford Fusion
2009-2006 Mercury Milan

S20027
2010 Ford Light Truck Transit Connect

S20028
2006 Lincoln Zephyr
2009-2006 Ford Fusion
2009-2006 Mercury Milan

S20030
2002-2001 Chevrolet Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2002-2001 Chevrolet Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Express
2002-2001 GMC Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2002-2001 GMC Light Truck G Series Fullsize Van / Savana
1999-1998 Chevrolet Light Truck P Series Van
1999-1998 GMCLight Truck P Series Van

S20031
2004-2000 Chevrolet Corvette
2005-2004 Cadillac CTS

S20032
2002 Cadillac Escalade
2002 Chevrolet Light Truck Avalanche
2002-2000 Chevrolet Light Truck Fullsize Pickup
2002-2000 GMC Light Truck Fullsize Pickup

S20034
2008-2005 Pontiac Vibe

S20035
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix

S20036
2002-1999 Chevrolet Camaro
2002-1999 Pontiac Firebird

S20038
2009-2005,2010 Ford Mustang


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